The Complete Guide to Collagen
When it comes to defying the ageing process, collagen is a vital component worth becoming well acquainted with. So, what exactly does this beauty and wellness buzzword mean and how can you support it? Alongside the experts, we’re deep diving into everything you need to know to care for your collagen from inside and out.
Harnessing the power of collagen isn’t reserved for beauty enthusiasts or wellness devotees, it’s for anyone who wants to enhance their overall health and vitality from within. Serving as the fundamental cornerstone for skin, hair and nails, collagen is a multifaceted hero in maintaining overall wellbeing. Its pivotal roles include enhancing skin physiology, fortifying joints and offering vital support to tendons, ligaments, skin, teeth and various connective tissue structures.
Collagen types
Collagen refers to a whole a family of proteins and there are at least 28 different types identified in the human body. The most abundant types include Type I (found in skin, tendons and bones), Type II (prevalent in cartilage) and Type III (present in skin, blood vessels and internal organs).
Collagen through the ageing process
The amount of collagen in young, healthy skin has been shown to be greater than 75 per cent. Unfortunately, it decreases as we age. “When it comes to supporting the ageing process, collagen health is so important because collagen is the main structural protein in the skin,” says cosmetic physician Dr Sarah Tranter. So, what to look out for? “Signs of prematurely aged skin, such as fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity and sagging, creases and folds, can indicate poor collagen health,” advised Dr Tranter. “However, if we can help preserve our natural collagen levels and support collagen building in the skin then our skin can maintain youthful firmness for longer.”
Collagen levels naturally start to decline in your mid 20s, so it’s important to be mindful of this if you want to proactively adopt healthy lifestyle choices and a good topical skincare routine. In your 30s, collagen declines further and you may like to consider actives such as retinol, bio-stimulating treatments and microneedling or laser treatments. “In women, particularly around perimenopause this decline of collagen happens at an even more rapid rate,” explains Dr Tranter. “So by early 40s and above, at my clinic we usually recommend adding in energy-based treatments like radiofrequency, as they are more collagen stimulating and yield greater results.
Age-defying nutrition
Nourishing your body with the right foods can be an effective way to support collagen production and health, starting with what’s on your plate – and what you leave off.
Load up on collagen-supporting wholefoods
Incorporate a variety of colourful fruits and vegetables such as berries, citrus fruits and leafy greens. “These are loaded with vitamin C — an essential cofactor for collagen synthesis,” explains Jessica Sepel, nutritionist and founder of JSHealth. Protein sources such as lean meats, fish, eggs, legumes, tofu and dairy products provide amino acids necessary for collagen formation. There’s also a world of collagen-rich foods such as bone broth and fish with edible skin and bones to explore for those who are adventurous. Tip: Many people love a cup of bone broth as it comes, however it can easily be added almost undisguised in dishes like soups, stews and curries, or even frozen into ice cubes and blended into smoothies so you won’t even know it’s there.
Watch out for collagen culprits
While incorporating collagen-supporting foods into your diet is beneficial, it’s equally important to be mindful of choices that may contribute to collagen damage.
Avoid or limit highly processed foods and refined sugars. Sugar intake and processed carbohydrates can lead to the production of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), which may harm collagen fibres. “Foods high in additives, preservatives and artificial flavourings can contribute to inflammation and oxidative stress, potentially harming collagen,” warns Sepel. Additionally, excessive alcohol consumption can dehydrate the skin, leading to reduced collagen levels and can also interfere with the body’s ability to produce collagen.
Always stay hydrated
Water is a vital component of collagen, and studies show that when you’re dehydrated, your skin becomes inelastic and prone to damage. “Ensure you’re getting your 2-3 litres of H20 a day to help sustain your skin’s collagen health and integrity,” recommends Dr Tranter.
Supplements
A quality collagen supplement can be an effective and easy way to take your collagen care protocol up a level, however it’s important to select the right kind. “Supplementing with marine collagen has been shown to support and maintain beneficial collagen levels for healthy, youthful, hydrated and glowing skin,” says Sepel. “However, not all collagen formulas are created equal.” Sepel recommends a hydrolysed marine collagen to provide a clean, easily absorbed source of collagen. “Hydrolysed collagen has undergone the process of hydrolysis, making it easier for the body to absorb and therefore maximising its potential benefits,” she explains. Marine collagen is backed by research to provide impressive results and is composed primarily of collagen type 1 (compared to bovine, which has type 1 and 3). Type 1 has superior solubility and is the form of collagen that helps in the formation of skin, bones and other tissues, and is the most effective for cellular repair.
So, what about the dose? “Marine collagen peptides have been shown to be around 1.5 times more effective than other collagen sources, such as bovine and porcine, due to their low molecular weight and purity,” says Sepel. “Therefore, at just 2.5g a day over a 12-week period has been proven to support skin hydration, skin firmness and reduce fine lines and wrinkles – anything above this is a bonus!”
Collagen-focused skincare
Upping the ante on your skincare practices can make a dramatic difference when it comes to collagen self-care. Here’s the lowdown on what to do to support the youthful radiance that healthy collagen heralds.
Favour natural
When it comes to supporting your collagen, opting for efficacious natural topical skincare is the way to go. “Many people don’t realise that the skin is a formidable organism with the ability to self-regenerate,” says Mukti, cosmetic formulator and beauty therapist behind Mukti Organics. “Unfortunately, from an early age, we frequently disrupt these processes by using numerous chemical-laden products, thus upsetting the balance or depleting the skin of its natural oils.” Doing this can result in skin issues such as dryness, oiliness, acne, a range of sensitivities and potential collagen damage over time. Mukti recommends adopting a skincare routine that enhances, nourishes and supports the skin’s innate functions, steering clear of disrupting its natural processes in order to facilitate an optimal collagen environment.
Adopt a morning and evening routine
According to the experts, a good skincare routine for targeting collagen health should focus on two things: protective and preventive for collagen breakdown and that stimulates new collagen formation. “Protection should happen as part of the morning routine. Cleanse first, then use an antioxidant/vitamin C serum, moisturise, then always apply SPF 50+,” prescribes Dr Tranter.
“Your evening routine is where you can incorporate collagen stimulation. I like to cleanse (also important for removing dirt, sunscreen and pollution from the skin), then I incorporate a retinoid into my routine, which is a vitamin A derivative that upregulates collagen production,” she explains.
Remember to exfoliate
Incorporate an exfoliant once or twice a week. “While this can be key to stimulating cell turnover and promoting collagen production, it’s important to be wary of which exfoliant you choose,” warns Mukti. Many exfoliating products with rough, abrasive particles or high concentrations of chemical exfoliants can damage the skin’s protective barrier increased sensitivity, inflammation and, in the long run, collagen breakdown. Mukti’s recommendation? “Look for gentle fruit enzymes which contain natural alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) that gently dissolve dead skin cells, resurfacing the skin and encouraging collagen production.”
Superstar ingredients
There are some standout ingredients that are backed by research to do the hard yards when it comes to both preserving collagen levels and stimulating collagen synthesis. Here are the routine essentials:
Retinoids and bakuchiol
“Retinoids have a long history of evidence in their ability to boost collagen levels,” says Dr Tranter, who also recommends them for their additional benefits of improving signs of sun damage in the skin, pigmentation, redness and skin texture. “However, retinoids aren’t suitable for everyone, including pregnant women, so a natural, plant-based alternative is Bakuchiol, which can mimic the actions of traditional retinoids to have a similar effect,” she says.
Hyaluronic acid
Just as drinking plenty of water is key for collagen health, so too is topical hydration. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant – a substance that helps the body hold onto water within the skin – improving plumpness and pliability. It is known to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water molecules, helping to maintain a deeply hydrated complexion and prevent trans-epidermal water loss, fostering a pro-collagen environment.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C has a very powerful antioxidant action, which makes it an incredible ingredient for collagen. “When applied as a component of skincare, free radicals are neutralised before they can cause damage to skin cells, natural oils and collagen and elastin fibres,” explains Mukti. “In addition, vitamin C also stimulates the further production of additional antioxidant enzymes like superoxide dismutase. By protecting the skin, it can help delay signs of ageing such as fine lines, which are often formed by the breakdown of dermal collagen fibres as a result of free radicals.” Mukti’s natural vitamin C of choice for her formulations is Australian native Kakadu plum, nature’s highest natural source of vitamin C.
Peptides
Peptides play a crucial role in supporting collagen in skincare by serving as building blocks for the synthesis of new collagen proteins. In a nutshell, they signal to the skin that collagen production is needed, promoting firmness, elasticity and overall skin rejuvenation.
Tailored targeted treatments
“Finally, select treatments that are tailored to you, your skin and your goals can be considered as part of your routine,” Says Dr Tranter. From at-home to in clinic, here are some rituals to weave into your pro-collagen protocol.
Regular facials
Facials deep-cleanse, exfoliate and nourish the skin, creating an optimal environment for collagen production. Facial massages enhance blood circulation and muscle tone, promoting a youthful complexion.
Buccal massage
Performed by a therapist with gloves on from inside and outside the mouth, the buccal massage technique tightens facial muscles, stimulating collagen production for a plumper, more youthful appearance and a relaxing experience.
Gua sha
This ancient Chinese beauty method using a crystal or stone beauty tool, promotes circulation, aids lymphatic drainage and supports collagen synthesis, improving skin tone and texture.
Microneedling
By creating tiny skin puncture, microneedling triggers the repair process, creating collagen and elastin production, reducing fine lines and wrinkles for overall skin rejuvenation.
LED Therapy
This non-invasive skin treatment that utilises different wavelengths of light to stimulate collagen production, reduce inflammation and promote various skin benefits.
Radiofrequency
These treatments heat the skin’s deeper layers, stimulating collagen and elastin production to tighten the skin and improve texture. They have an immediate tightening effect which then improves over the coming months as the tissues regenerate at various depths.
Collagen-loving lifestyle habits
Beyond focusing on nutrition and skincare, adopting collagen-supporting lifestyle practices serves as an additional catalyst for skin rejuvenation, a radiant complexion and elevated sense of overall wellbeing. Here are some of the pivotal practices to weave in (and out) of your routine.
Stress management
Elevated stress levels can adversely affect your skin and health at large. Prolonged stress leads to increased cortisol levels, accelerating the loss of collagen and elastin, our vital proteins responsible for maintaining youthful skin texture. Combat premature wrinkling and sagging skin by incorporating stress-management techniques into your lifestyle.
“I recommend utilising what I call the JSHealth Stress Free Zone (or SFZ) every day to help manage stress,” suggests Sepel. “The SFZ is the space we give ourselves to be completely free from stress. Commit to 10-30 minutes to be away from your work environment, your phone and the demands of life – do something that brings you joy. Listen to your favourite podcast, create a delicious healthy meal with friends or family, practise the guitar – whatever it is that helps you switch off and find peace,” she says.
UV light exposure
Excessive sunlight exposure is another collagen foe, diminishing production and hastening collagen breakdown. The result? Unwanted wrinkles. Shield your skin by avoiding prolonged sun exposure and consistently applying sunscreen with SPF30 and higher and more frequently when outdoors in the sun, sweating or swimming.
Prioritise quality sleep
Dr Tranter emphasizes the importance of ample sleep; “Night time is the prime period for collagen synthesis and skin repair. Prioritise quality sleep to enhance your skin’s natural rejuvenation process, promoting a refreshed and vibrant complexion.
Quit smoking
Smoking is a collagen-killing culprit, diminishing production and causing damage to both collagen and elastin. This harmful habit not only leads to wrinkles but also slows down the skin’s natural healing process. If you’re a smoker, this is another reason to kick the habit to preserve your skin’s elasticity and support a smoother, more youthful appearance.
Remember, embracing the magic of a pro-collagen lifestyle isn’t just a beauty ritual; it’s a celebration of self-care and a commitment to ageing gracefully. Whether you’re loading your plate with collagen-boosting foods, adding a dose of collagen powder to your morning beverage, indulging in skincare secrets or simply revelling in the joy of a wellness-focused lifestyle, you’re not just caring for collagen – you’re bolstering your inside-out radiance and vitality alongside that youthful glow.
