The appearance of our skin is capable of evoking strong emotions in us. It’s the front we show the world. When there are problems, it’s tempting to take quick and sometimes risky measures to “fix” them. However, rarely can a chronic skin condition be fixed quickly with an external treatment such as a lotion or cosmetic technique. How can you successfully treat acne with a cream if the cause is an unhappy liver? In most cases, skin problems require a dedicated change of diet and lifestyle to correct the imbalance. Skin problems are also great indicators that we need to pay attention to our inner health.

Acne and pimples

This is one of the most common skin complaints during adolescence and other times of hormonal change. Plus, an increasing number of people are developing acne later in life for the first time.

Acne can present in a number of different forms. In order of severity these include: enlarged pores and oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads; single inflamed pimples; rash-like pimples with or without heads; cystic boil-like lumps; and generally bumpy and congested skin with inflamed pimples and cysts. These are all versions of the following process:

• Oil gland ducts on the skin’s surface become blocked by dried oil and keratin cells. Oil then backs up in the duct and forms a comedone that can be either closed (whitehead) or open (blackhead).

• Hormones, over-washing and diet stimulate the gland to make more oil despite its blocked duct. The gland distends and forms an uninfected cyst.

• At the same time, the normal bacteria in the follicle start to increase, feeding on the oil and blocking the pore further.

• The cyst ruptures, causing wider inflammation and infection.

Causes and solutions

There are four main internal causes underlying acne. If the cause can be determined, it’s easier to target treatment so it works faster and more effectively. The appearance of the pimples/acne as well as when it first appears can give clues to the underlying causes.

1. Genetic predisposition

If your parents had acne during adolescence, it’s probable that you will, too. If acne develops for the first time in adulthood or you are the only one in the family with it, then it’s less likely that it has a genetic basis. However, regardless of genetic predisposition, if you are careful about diet and skincare, you can greatly improve the health and appearance of your skin.

2. Hormones

Androgens (testosterone)

Testosterone is the major factor underlying most cases of acne that begin during adolescence. This type of acne can range from a few single pimples to severe cystic acne. Testosterone is converted to its more potent form, dihydrotestosterone (DHT), and at puberty the level of these two hormones rises and increases the number and activity of oil glands, plus thickens and coarsens the skin and hair.

People with acne often have normal blood levels of testosterone but either are sensitive to it or convert more of it to DHT. In addition, they often have a low level of sex hormone binding globulin (SHBG) that normally binds at least 99 per cent of testosterone so that only 1 per cent is available to affect the skin, hair and oil glands. If SHBG levels are low, there is more available testosterone to be converted to DHT, making the skin oilier and more prone to acne.

Many women with acne have a condition called polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS), which is associated with high testosterone levels. Other symptoms include poor insulin and sugar control and often a family history of diabetes; excess body hair (chin, nipples, snail trail, bikini line); difficulty losing weight; hormonal imbalances (irregular periods, a longer cycle, difficulty falling pregnant); and a high free testosterone level.

Regulate testosterone levels:

• Herbs that help regulate testosterone levels are saw palmetto, nettle, sarsaparilla and the traditional Chinese formulation paeonia and licorice.

• To optimise SHBG levels, eat foods rich in phyto-oestrogens (see oestrogen/progesterone balance below), keep blood sugar levels balanced and support liver function (see below).

• Reduce and control stress levels. The hormone cortisol is secreted when we experience any form of stress and, ideally, declines rapidly. However, when stress is prolonged, cortisol levels remain raised and increase testosterone production as well as insulin, which in turn also increases testosterone (see Eczema for strategies to reduce stress).

• Zinc is highly effective in the treatment of acne and oily skin. In many cases, its ability to reduce inflammation and infection is comparable with that of antibiotics. Take 50mg for four weeks and then reduce the dose to 25mg a day. Use a zinc taste-tester to determine your levels of zinc. Foods high in zinc include oysters, pumpkin seeds, nuts, red meat, poultry, egg yolks.

• Vitamin B₅ (pantothenic acid) has been shown to improve acne and oily skin. It particularly helps the body to regulate cortisol levels (stress hormone) and therefore probably has an effect on testosterone. Clinically, I have found using 5000mg daily in divided doses and then reducing it by 1000mg each week until down to 2000mg daily to be effective. Note: you should always take a B complex tablet daily when using a single B vitamin.

• Omega-3 essential fatty acids help regulate all hormones (see Eczema for food sources).

• Eat a low-glycaemia diet and take nutrients that help sugar metabolism (chromium, magnesium, calcium, zinc, alpha lipoic acid). This will also help to keep weight under control for those with PCOS. (For more detail on balancing blood sugar levels, see Ageing Skin — Glycation.)

• Alpha lipoic acid helps to reduce the conversion of testosterone to DHT by converting it back to its less potent form, androstenedione.

• Improve the liver’s detoxification and breakdown of testosterone (see below).

Oestrogen/progesterone

Is your acne worse mid-cycle or around your period? Nearly half of all women experience pimples and acne at these times, most commonly around the jaw line, chin and upper and outer neck area. This type of acne is often due to an imbalance between the two hormones oestrogen and progesterone.

The terms “oestrogen dominance syndrome” and “premenstrual syndrome” refer to a set of symptoms that typically occur between ovulation and the next period. They include acne, swollen and tender breasts, mood swings, sugar cravings, bloating and headaches. They indicate that a woman’s oestrogen level is too high for the progesterone level. This can be checked through blood and saliva testing. The ideal ratio is 1:200 of oestrogen to progesterone.

Balance oestrogen and progesterone:

• One of the most successful herbs for premenstrual acne is chaste tree (vitex) as it promotes the production of progesterone levels in the second half of the cycle. A typical dose is two 1000mg tablets taken before breakfast from days 10 to 28 of the cycle. Alternatively, you can take 40 drops in a little water. However, as with all treatments recommended, it’s important to check with a herbalist or naturopath that it is suitable for you.

• Foods that contain phyto-oestrogens (alfalfa, beans, celery, chickpeas, linseed meal, oats, parsley, peas, soybean, sunflower seeds) are capable of naturally lowering the body’s levels of oestrogen if there is an excess (see Ageing Skin — Hormone Decline for more detail).

• Reduce exposure to oestrogen-like chemicals (xeno-oestrogens) found in our food, water and environment that have hormonal effects in our body. Some sources include non-organic meats, poultry, eggs and dairy products; agricultural and domestic pesticides, herbicides and fungicides; and hard and soft plastics that contact our food and water (wraps, containers, water bottles).

• Improve liver detoxification, which in turn improves the metabolism and elimination of oestrogen (see below).

• Zinc, magnesium and vitamin B₆ help reduce all pre-menstrual symptoms associated with oestrogen dominance.

3. Food sensitivities

As we get older, acne is less likely to be caused by a hormonal imbalance and more likely to result from food sensitivities and excesses. Fine red pimples or whiteheads on the face, neck and chest are usually caused by reactions to foods, while large pimples and cysts are more likely to be hormonal. Also, if the rash, pimples or acne worsen after eating particular foods, it’s likely to be due to particular foods or generally poor digestion. And, finally, these types of acne don’t often improve with medications such as Roaccutane, antibiotics, the oral contraceptive pill or Androcur.

Identify and eliminate food sensitivities. The most accurate way to do this is to either eliminate one food at a time and see if there is any improvement, or eliminate a group of foods and add them back in, one each week, to see if skin worsens. Clinically, I have found the most common culprits for acne include wheat, dairy, sugar and fatty deep-fried or creamy foods. If acne appears for the first time in the late 20s, it may be caused by a sensitivity to salicylates and/or amines.

Support general digestion (see Eczema).

Balance blood sugar levels:

• Acne is often referred to as diabetes of the skin. Research has shown that people with acne commonly have insulin resistance in skin cells. Excess sugar and insulin anywhere in the body leads to inflammation and bacterial overgrowth. If this occurs in the skin, acne is a likely outcome. Insulin resistance and high sugar diets are also linked to testosterone imbalances and PCOS.

• If you have acne, you may be deficient in the mineral chromium, essential for the metabolism of glucose; without it, you can end up with too much glucose in the blood and this can lead to breakouts. Sugar robs the body of chromium.

• Eat a low-glycaemic diet and balance blood sugar levels with nutrients (see Ageing Skin — Glycation for strategies).

4. General toxicity and poor elimination

Skin is one of the body’s pathways to eliminate wastes and toxins, along with the liver, kidneys and lymphatics. When the liver’s detoxification pathways are not working well, an increased burden falls on the skin. Wastes and toxins are pushed out through the skin and can lead to pimples and acne.

It’s often observed that this type of acne can initially worsen during fasting and detoxification treatments. The degree at which this happens depends on the body’s toxin load, how intensive the treatment is and how well the liver is supported during the detoxification process. Once the liver is working well and the toxins are removed, the skin usually improves dramatically. The supplement MSM, high in sulfur, may work well if the liver is the cause of the problem.

Support the body’s elimination pathways:

• Many of the herbs traditionally used to treat acne are called blood cleansers. They support all the elimination pathways in the body and include burdock, butternut, calendula, clivers, dandelion root, echinacea, nettle leaf/root, oregon grape root, red clover, sarsaparilla and yellow dock.

• Ensure daily bowel movements with a diet high in soluble fibre (fruit, vegetables, oats, oat bran, rice bran, ground linseeds, psyllium) and drink at least two litres of filtered water daily.

Support liver detoxification with:

• Herbs: St Mary’s thistle, dandelion, globe artichoke, schizandra, rosemary.

• Nutrients: folic acid, vitamins A, B₂, B₃, B₆, B₁₂, C, E, alpha lipoic acid, glutathione, MSM, choline, inositol.

• Amino acids: cysteine, glutamine, methionine, ornithine, taurine.

• Minerals: copper, iron, magnesium, molybdenum, selenium, zinc.

• Sulphur-rich foods and nutrients (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, capsicum, egg, garlic, legumes, MSM, onion).

• Drink boiled water and ¼ fresh lemon juice every morning before breakfast.

• Reduce liver irritants (alcohol, coffee, other recreational drugs and unnecessary medications); allergic and intolerant foods and food additives; junk food and fried takeaway food; reheated, burnt, old, rancid oils.

• Reduce exposure to toxins (pesticides and other agricultural chemicals; chemicals found in skincare products, detergents, insect sprays, furnishings and fabrics etc) by eating organic foods and using natural skincare and cleaning products.

• Improve lymph flow.

• Drink at least two litres of room-temperature filtered water daily.

• Saunas (see Topical).

• Dry skin brush at least once daily for 1–2 minutes before a shower. Using a natural bristle brush, sweep long stokes from the feet and hands up towards the heart, all over the body.

• Exercises that particularly improve lymph flow are walking, jogging, swimming, cycling, rebounding and wobbling.

• Reduce foods that congest the lymphatics (dairy, saturated fats, refined carbohydrates, sugar).

• Lymphatic drainage massage performed by a qualified massage therapist is very beneficial for improving lymph flow and decongesting the skin.

External treatment

Many people notice an improvement in their acne just by changing their skincare regime.

• Over-washing, especially with alkaline soaps, foaming cleansers and hot water can strip the skin’s surface oils and trigger the sebaceous glands to produce more. Instead, wash only twice a day with a gentle non-foaming pH-balanced cleanser. Some people find cleaning their skin with oil-based cleansers, or even straight oils such as macadamia, jojoba or vitamin E oil, to be effective because these are able to dissolve sebum. In addition, using oil teaches the skin to reduce its own production of oil, thus reducing skin oiliness over time. Experiment with this and see if it suits you.

• Gentle exfoliation will help to remove dead skin surface cells that block oil gland openings. It needs to be done at least 2–3 times weekly and be very gentle on active acne. Ground oatmeal is one of the most effective, gentlest and cheapest exfoliators. It’s also good for controlling blackheads if done regularly. Soak 1 tablespoon of oats or ground oatmeal in enough boiled water to make a paste. Apply over the skin and let dry. After 10 minutes, wet fingers and rub skin in small circular motions to wet the oatmeal and exfoliate the skin. Rinse thoroughly with tepid water.

• Steaming the face helps to open pores, remove blocked plugs and promote detoxification. Half fill a bowl with just-boiled filtered water. You may wish to add a total of 2–3 drops of essential oils (chamomile, lavender, tea-tree) mixed into 1 teaspoon of carrier oil. Place your face over the bowl and cover your head with a towel so the steam doesn’t escape. Keep your face at least 20cm away from the water so the steam doesn’t burn. Do this for at least five minutes. Follow with gentle exfoliation and an appropriate mask. Repeat every second day.

• Whole body steaming in a sauna is an effective way to eliminate wastes and toxins from the body through the skin and helps to take the load off the liver, kidneys and lymphatics. Try to stay in the sauna for at least 15 minutes, then rinse under a shower and go back in for another 15 minutes. You may only be able to tolerate five minutes when first starting and gradually build up to 15 minutes. Try to do this at least once a fortnight unless you are pregnant, on heart medication or feeling unwell. The best saunas are far-infrared or wet. Avoid dry saunas as they are too heating and debilitating.

• The moisturiser you use with acne depends on whether you have oily skin or not. Have your skin type properly analysed by a Beauty therapist to determine whether it’s dry, oily, combination or dehydrated. Then, use a low-oil moisturiser on oily areas and an oil-rich one on dry areas. Many people find their skin is dry and flaky after cleansing and feel the need to apply moisturiser, only to find the skin becomes oily an hour later. This simply means the skin isn’t being cleansed and exfoliated correctly and may be experiencing surface dehydration even though it’s an oily skin type. Once skin is balanced and hydrated with appropriate cleansing, exfoliation and moisturising, it will feel softer, smoother and less oily over the day. Avoid using mineral oil as this only clogs the pores further. While some people have had success with using natural oils such as rosehip oil, jojoba oil and vitamin E oil on oily skin (as they are meant to help normalise sebum), it has been shown to exacerbate the problem for others by clogging the pores further. If this is the case, stick to natural moisturising gels.

• Reducing infections in acne will help to clear the skin. This is why many of the commercial acne washes are anti-bacterial. While they can work well for some, for others they are too drying. Fortunately, there are ways to get the same effect naturally. First, avoid touching your face. I know this can be very difficult, especially when your pimples have come up into heads, but touching them does substantially increase the risk of infection and developing larger cyst-like pimples. Have a trained beauty therapist drain any pimples or extract blackheads. Gentle topical anti-microbials can be mixed into cleansers and face masks or applied after your skincare regime. These include manuka honey, aloe vera gel, colloidal silver, diluted tea-tree oil, neem oil, lavender essential oil or diluted apple cider vinegar.

• Ingredients that help unclog sebum are also very helpful for acne. These include sulfur; MSM because of its high sulfur content is also good; retinoids, relatives of vitamin A, can also be effective, though they can cause severe skin irritation, redness and sun sensitivity. My advice is to use them very short term. Avoid them if you are pregnant. Alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids may also be helpful. They help by dissolving the glue that holds dead skin cells together, which helps unclog the pores. But, again, they can irritate the skin. They also make the skin photo-sensitive, so be sure to wear a sunscreen.

Ageing skin

Ageing skin is that which experiences thinning, dryness, wrinkles, loss of facial volume and sagging. The rate at which it occurs is determined by genetics and skin type as well as our exposure to events and substances that damage collagen and elastin fibres. Whether you are experiencing chronological ageing or premature ageing of the skin, there are many things you can do to slow the rate at which your skin ages.

Causes and solutions

A number of factors contribute to skin ageing:

• Exposure to ultraviolet light.

• The accumulation of free radicals.

• The decline in anti-ageing hormones.

Hormone decline

As hormones decline during the mid and later decades, skin becomes increasingly dry, thin, wrinkled and saggy. The rate of cell renewal slows to 35–50 days and there is a loss of connective tissue proteins, hyaluronic acid and white fat. By the 30s, hormones that affect the skin are already in decline and the early signs of ageing are visible. This process accelerates as our hormones drop further. For example, skin loses up to 30 per cent of its collagen in the first five years after menopause and then 2.5 per cent is lost each year over the next 20 years.

Oestrogen

Collagen loss is primarily due to the decline of oestrogen, which has a number of youthful affects on skin. It increases skin thickness, elasticity, strength and hydration as well as increases the rate of new cell production. In addition, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin and increases fat stores under the skin.

While synthetic oestrogen replacement therapy quickly improves skin, studies have also shown it can have a number of detrimental effects. Instead, we can naturally and safely optimise our oestrogen levels as many foods and herbs contain phyto-oestrogens that we can eat or add to creams.

Phyto-estrogens attach to receptors and help “normalise” hormone levels. If oestrogen is too high, they block the stronger oestrogens from binding. If levels are too low, they themselves can trigger a weak oestrogenic affect. This explains how plant chemicals are much safer and can re-balance hormone levels, although they usually take longer to show noticeable effects.

Boost oestrogen levels:

• Herbs that help to counter the effects of declining oestrogen include black cohosh, dong quai, false unicorn root, maca, paeonia, red clover, shatavari, squaw vine and wild yam.

• Regularly eat foods high in phyto-oestrogens and avoid xeno-estrogens where possible (see Acne).

• Eat foods rich in essential fatty acids as they generally balance hormones (see Eczema).

Human growth hormone

HGH is secreted by the pituitary while we sleep. It in turn stimulates the release of the hormone Insulin-like Growth Factor One (IGF-1).

Together their main effects on the skin are:

• Increase collagen and elastin production.

• Promote DNA repair.

• Improve wound healing.

Production of these two hormones peaks in adolescence during the accelerated growth phase. From then on, levels decrease 14 per cent every decade and by 60 years of age are only 25 per cent compared with a 20-year-old.

A synthetic injectable form of hGH is used to boost levels, but its long-term safety remains controversial. The only other form available is a homoeopathic spray. It can’t be taken orally as it is rendered ineffective by digestive juices and in creams its molecules are too large to be absorbed through the skin. We can also improve our own natural production of hGH using a mix of the amino acids arginine, glutamine, lysine and ornithine. Their effects are even greater when combined with homoeopathic hGH. Sleep deprivation will reduce levels.

DHEA (dehydroepiadrosterone)

DHEA is a hormone made in the adrenals that is used to make all other hormones, so its levels naturally decline as we age. Its production peaks at age 25 and then declines. Once we reach 65, we make only about 10–20 per cent of optimal levels.

Its main effects on skin are:

• Promotes an “oestrogen effect” — a thicker, smoother, younger-looking skin.

• Reduces inflammation.

• Maintains skin immunity and preserves the skin’s delicate blood vessels.

• Works like an antioxidant and reduces the harmful effects of UV radiation.

DHEA has a number of benefits when used topically. These effects are 85–90 per cent greater than when taken orally. We can also naturally improve our DHEA levels with vitamin B₅ and the herb tribulus. Vitamin B₅ normalises DHEA levels as it is the main precursor of co-enzyme A. All adrenal hormone production uses co-enzyme A, so supplementing with B₅ is an effective way to normalise all adrenal hormones.

In Ayurvedic medicine, tribulus is called the “great hormone balancer”. It normalises DHEA in two ways. Tribulus nourishes and tonifies the adrenal glands, helping maintain their healthy weight and hormone production. It also raises luteinising hormone (LH) secreted from the pituitary by around 70 per cent. LH stimulates DHEA production and therefore normalises many of the hormones that naturally decline as we age.

Melatonin

Melatonin protects our skin and slows ageing. Levels of melatonin decrease as we age. It’s a water- and fat-soluble antioxidant that, when applied topically, absorbs UV radiation and mops up free radicals.

Its effects on skin are:

• Increases levels of antioxidant enzymes in the skin.

• Enhances the skin’s ability to repair itself after free radical damage.

• Improves the effects of oestrogen on the skin by increasing the density of oestrogen receptors.

• Improves skin hydration.

• Improves the quality and quantity of sleep. This is the time when our skin is repaired and is commonly referred to as “beauty sleep”.

Melatonin can be taken orally or applied topically. It’s also available as a homoeopathic. We can naturally boost our own levels by improving serotonin levels with the amino acids 5-hydroxytryptophan and SAMe, vitamins B₆, B₉, B_12, evening primrose oil, the herbs rhodiola and St John’s wort, and walnuts.

We can also significantly increase melatonin with meditation, especially before bed. Melatonin is inhibited by alcohol, caffeine, nicotine and corticosteroids. Eating less (See Healthy Skin Diet pg40) also helps melatonin levels. Melatonin is stimulated by the dark and suppressed by the light, so make sure to sleep in a dark room.

Free radical damage

Free radicals are highly unstable molecules that interact quickly and aggressively with other molecules in our bodies to create abnormal cells. We naturally produce them in every cell of the body when food is converted to energy as well as during the process of detoxification. The other main source of free radicals is the environment (diet, cosmetics, skincare, UV radiation, medications, recreational drugs and domestic/agricultural/industrial chemicals).

Collagen is particularly susceptible to free radical damage and, when this damage occurs, it causes the collagen protein molecules to break down and then link back up again in a different way; this is known as cross-linking. Collagen cross-linking causes the normally mobile collagen to become weaker, saggier, stiffer and less mobile.

Prolonged sun exposure is one of skin’s main enemies. This is because UV radiation generates one of the most dangerous forms of free radicals, called reactive oxygen species (ROS). As ROS rapidly deplete the skin’s antioxidant stores and damages its cell structure and DNA, they are blamed for most pigment changes, premature ageing and skin cancers. Ironically, some of the chemicals found in sunscreens also generate significant free radicals.

We can slow the degradation of healthy connective tissue by minimising free radical exposure and using topical and internal antioxidants.

Lower dietary free radicals:

• Reduce your consumption of processed foods made with refined flour and sugar.

• Avoid reheated, damaged, burnt and barbecued fats and oils (roasted nuts, cooking with vegetable oils, deep-fried junk and fast foods, margarines, commercial baked products).

• Follow a low-allergy and low-intolerance diet.

• Eat organic food to minimise agricultural and livestock hormones and pesticides.

• Minimise alcohol, caffeine, cigarettes, unnecessary pharmaceutical drugs and recreational drugs.

Lower environmental free radicals:

• Avoid the sun between 10am and 4pm.

• Use natural sun protection that is a physical barrier (stay in the shade, wear a hat and clothing, use a sunscreen that contains zinc oxide).

• Avoid sunscreens that absorb UV radiation (in particular dioxybenzone, sulisobenzone (Eusolex), oxybenzone, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate) as they contain chemicals that are readily absorbed by the skin and, when activated by UV, cause free radical damage themselves.

• Reduce agricultural, household, personal and workplace chemicals and toxins.

• Avoid heavily polluted areas and never live or exercise near a main road.

• Avoid skincare and personal products that use synthetic chemicals as preservatives and additives.

Reduce free radical production in the body:

• Improve digestion  (see Psoriasis).

• Improve the liver’s ability to detoxify and reduce exposure to toxins (see Acne).

Improving your antioxidant defence system

Some of the most powerful and abundant dietary antioxidants are the carotenoid family, found in brightly coloured fruits and vegetables. They absorb UV radiation and help prevent photo-ageing, age spots and skin cancer. Examples of carotenoids include the red pigment lycopene in tomatoes, tomato paste and juice; the orange/red/yellow carotenes in carrots, corn, mango, pawpaw, oranges, pumpkin and sweet potato; and the purple anthocyanins in beetroot, blackberries, blueberries, eggplant and purple grapes.

Antioxidants are also found in abundance in cold-pressed, uncooked extra virgin olive oil; green, red and white tea; and colourful spices and fresh herbs.

Antioxidant supplements include vitamins (A, C, E, betacarotene, bioflavonoids); minerals (magnesium, molybdenum, silica, selenium, zinc); nutrients (alpha lipoic acid, CoQ10, grapeseed extract, resveratrol) and superoxide dismutase; and superfoods (spirulina, wheat and barley grass, chlorella, goji).

If your exposure to toxins is high (caused by smoking, excess driving, living in the city, eating fast food regularly and exposure to home or workplace chemicals etc), it’s worth taking an antioxidant supplement daily as well as eating lots of colourful fruits and vegetables.

Glycation

Glycation is a chemical reaction between sugar and protein that occurs in our bodies and during cooking. These new protein-sugar complexes are attacked by free radicals and formed into advanced glycation end-products (AGEs). These cause cross-linking of proteins (especially collagen and elastin) and accelerate ageing throughout the skin and body.

Chronically raised blood glucose levels accelerate glycation and AGEs formation. Anyone suffering conditions such as diabetes, hypoglycaemia, glucose intolerance and insulin resistance or with a diet high in sugar and refined carbohydrates combined with a sedentary lifestyle is at greater risk for glycation and AGE formation. Balancing blood sugar levels is one of the most effective strategies for preventing glycation and AGEs formation.

Balance blood sugar levels:

• Use nutrients (alpha lipoic acid, calcium, chromium, glutamine, magnesium, manganese, zinc).

• Use appropriate herbs and spices (cinnamon, dandelion root, fennel, fenugreek, fringe tree, gymnema, goat’s rue, licorice).

• Combine whole grains and fruit with protein, oil and fibre.

• Always eat protein at breakfast.

• Minimise refined sugars and carbohydrates.

• Exercise regularly.

AGEs are also formed in foods during cooking. High temperatures, especially in the absence of water, quickly form AGEs between glucose and protein molecules in food. This process is intensified if a carbohydrate-based glaze (fruit, honey, sugar) is applied to the meat before cooking.

Minimise foods high in AGEs:

• Minimise cooking methods that raise food temperature over 120 degrees (barbecuing, baking, dry roasting, frying).

• Use water-based cooking methods (boiling, casserole, poaching, steaming, stewing, stirfrying).

• Use low-sugar marinades (lemon juice, lime juice, olive oil).

Dehydration

Dehydration of the skin and whole body will contribute significantly to premature skin ageing. (See Hormones, Melatonin).

Hydrate the skin:

• Use a pH-balanced cleanser or oil suited to your skin type and avoid foaming, alkaline cleansers.

• Avoid temperature extremes such as with over-hot baths, showers and air-conditioning, as too much heat can strip and fatigue these glands.

• Apply a safe moisturiser or oil that suits your skin type and condition. It will seal the skin surface and slow moisture loss. Look for a product that contains hyaluronic acid. This carbohydrate is found in every cell of the body, especially skin cells. It provides continuous moisture to the skin by binding up to 1000 times its weight in water. One of the hallmarks of ageing skin is the depletion of hyaluronic acid.

• Protect your skin and hair from excess sun, wind and salt water.

Hydrate from the inside:

• Drink at least 6–8 glasses of fresh, filtered room-temperature or warm water daily.

• Minimise diuretics (alcohol, caffeine, colas, fizzy drinks) and for every cup of diuretic you drink have one cup of water to replace the lost fluid, as well as your daily 6–8 glasses.

• Eat wet foods (soups, stews, casseroles, watery fruits).

• Consume essential fatty acids (see Eczema) and other healthy oils and fats (uncooked extra-virgin olive oil, avocado, nuts, seeds).

• You can assess your level of hydration by the dryness of your skin and mouth or colour of your urine (ideal is clear, pale yellow).

• A study done at the University of Naples indicated that lutein, when taken daily as a 10mg supplement increased skin hydration by 38 per cent and skin elasticity by 8 per cent.

Connective tissue

The deterioration of connective tissue throughout the body is one of the main markers for ageing, but this can be slowed and even reversed.

Build new connective tissue:

• Eat protein at every meal.

• Improve protein digestion (see Psoriasis).

• Eat the connective tissue of other animals (bones, ligaments and marrow in stock, soups and casseroles, ground-up egg shells, canned salmon and sardine bones).

• Regularly take nutrients for connective tissue production and repair (calcium, CoQ10, chondroitin, cysteine, glucosamine, MSM, magnesium, proline, silica, vitamins A and C, zinc).

• Prevent connective tissue breakdown (see below).

• Promote optimal hormone levels (see Hormones).

• Reduce the breakdown of connective tissue by minimising free radical damage and regularly eating and taking antioxidants.

Skin firmness

Most anti-ageing skincare regimes concentrate on reducing dryness and wrinkles. However, as we age, our skin loses its tone and firm contours. We can reduce, temporarily reverse and perhaps prevent skin sagging by improving skin circulation, hydration and muscle tone (see Facial Acupressure pg79).

Firm the skin:

• Regular face and neck exercises can release accumulated tension as well as improve the tone of muscles in and underlying the skin.

• Avoid rapid weight loss as it causes skin to sag.

• Dr Perricone uses topical DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol) to firm skin contours. It works by enhancing acetylcholine synthesis. Acetylcholine relays information between nerves and helps maintain tone in the skin’s tiny erector pilli muscle. This is the only muscle in the body that attaches to the skin. The benefits of DMAE last for about four hours and its regular use can prevent further loss of tone rather than reverse existing sagging.

• Improve skin circulation with exercise, facial massage and exercises, regular dry skin brushing and skin scrubs, hot and cold hydrotherapy baths and regular lymphatic drainage massage.

External treatment

See Age Spots 

Skin pigmentation

The colour of skin is determined by the amount of melanin that is made by the pigment cells, melanocytes. The process requires the amino acid tyrosine and is influenced by free-radical activity, temperature changes and the presence of certain vitamins and minerals. Excessive skin pigmentation is a result of excess production and deposition of melanin by the melanocytes (opposite to vitiligo).

Causes

• UV exposure.

• Ageing (called age spots, brown spots, liver spots) — see Age Spots for more detail.

• Hormonal (pregnancy, oral contraceptive pill, menopause).

• Post-inflammatory (after laser work, chemical peels, acne scars).

• Hereditary (birthmarks, port-wine stains, freckles, moles, Mongolian spots).

Treatment

See Age Spots

• Vitamin C is important to regulate the production of melanin because of its roles in the oxidation of tyrosine. Take 1000mg three times daily.

External treatments

The most effective treatment against pigmentation is to prevent its appearance worsening by daily application of sunscreen. UV exposure will worsen any existing pigmentation and promote further pigmentation to form.

The standard treatments for hyper pigmentation are laser, chemical peels or skin-lightening creams. While laser is generally more effective, there are fewer side-effects with creams. However, these can still cause reactions and some contain chemicals we wouldn’t want inside our bodies. Creams often only lighten the pigmentation as opposed to eliminating it. They work by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which produces melanin. There are some natural herbal lightening creams available and they may be worth trying.

Ingredients used for skin lightening:

• Hydroquinone, which can be effective although it is known to cause skin irritation and dermatitis in higher concentrations — in rare cases it can increase pigmentation. According to the EWG, it is a toxic ingredient.

• Kojic acid, derived from a fungus, can be also irritating and is not as effective as hydroquinone, but cannot cause further pigmentation.

• Paper mulberry bark extract is effective and doesn’t cause irritation like other skin lighteners.

• Arbutin, derived from bearberry — also causes less irritation.

• Licorice root extract has also shown promising results.

• Vitamin C also helps interfere with pigment production. It has the additional effect of protecting the skin against environmental damage and stimulates the production of collagen.

• Retinoids related to vitamin A work in several ways to reduce pigmentation. Their depigmenting properties arise from inhibition of the enzymes causing pigmentation, dispersion of pigment granules in the top layer of skin and by accelerating skin turnover to help pigmented skin cells shed more quickly. According to the EWG, retinoids are moderately hazardous to human health. They can also irritate the skin and are best used short-term.

• Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that helps to desquamate (exfoliate) the pigmented cells. By doing this it speeds up cell turnover and pigment is lost more rapidly. However, these must be used in conjunction with a sunscreen and other sun protection as AHAs may make the skin photo-sensitive.

• Topical B₃ cream appears to be a promising treatment. It inhibits the transfer of the pigment-forming cells, the melanosomes, to the surface of the skin.

Any ingredients that promote cell turnover can help brighten the complexion (and skin in general, especially ageing skin, as cell metabolism slows down as we age). Essential oils from plants have profound skin healing and rejuvenating properties and can help brighten and improve the appearance of the skin. These oils include everlasting, rose absolute and rose otto, carrot seed, lavender, frankincense, calendula, chamomile and rosewood. Rosehip oil contains transretinoic acid but, unlike retinoic acid, which can irritate the skin, rosehip gently refines, nourishes and rejuvenates the skin’s tissues.

Any ingredients that moisturise the skin, including fats and oils in vegetable and nut oils, sea extracts and aloe vera, are important in helping to stimulate cell turnover as the skin’s natural exfoliating enzymes won’t work unless the skin is properly moisturised.

Foods rich in skin-refining enzymes and alpha hydroxy acids can be used in homemade masks to promote cell turnover. These include papaya, milk, yoghurt and fruit juices including apple, grape, lemon and strawberry (see Pure Plant Therapy pg82).

Some people use lemon juice as a means of lightening their skin, especially for freckles. However, this can have a very drying effect, so care needs to be taken. A well-known Ayurvedic treatment is lemon juice in milk left on the skin overnight.

See Age Spots for more suggestions.

 

Eczema

Eczema is an acute or chronic allergic skin condition marked by inflammation and itch. It’s one of the most common skin problems as it affects most people at some point in their lives. Eczema is also called dermatitis, though this is a general term for skin (derma) and inflammation (itis). There are two main types of eczema:

Contact dermatitis

In contact dermatitis, the skin is temporarily irritated by an external agent and can become extremely itchy and red with tiny blisters or white bumps. It’s often caused by metals (jewellery, buckles, watches, teeth braces); animal hair, dander, dust and dustmites; chemicals in cosmetics and skincare products; detergents, washing powders, soaps and shampoos; essential oils; grasses, plants and mould; and chemicals found in the home, pool, workplace and garden. In some cases, the culprit is easy to identify as the eruption occurs soon after exposure. However, in other cases, the irritant isn’t obvious and one needs to think of any new products being used.

Atopic eczema

A person with an atopic constitution has a chronically unbalanced or hyper-reactive immune state. They react to foods and environmental irritants (see above) on a regular basis. Most people develop this type of eczema as babies and commonly share other allergy-based conditions (hayfever, asthma, indigestion) with their siblings, parents and grandparents, indicating this is an inherited condition. If a person develops an irritated immune system due to poor dietary and lifestyle choices or chronic stress, they may develop eczema or other allergy symptoms later in life.

With chronic eczema, the skin can become dry, thickened, leathery and scaly. In babies and children, eczema usually occurs around the mouth; in the flexures of the knees and elbows; on the nappy area; and on the trunk. In adults, it can be found anywhere on the body.

Solutions for contact and constitutional eczema

There are two main aspects: balancing the immune system and improving the body’s detoxification and elimination processes.

Balance and support the immune system:

• Reduce inflammation and balance immunity by eating and taking omega-3 essential fatty acids. These include oily deep-sea cold-water fish (salmon, mackerel, herring, sardines, tuna) and fish oil capsules or liquid; flaxseed (ground-up meal, oil or capsules); fresh, unroasted, unsalted nuts and seeds and their oils (particularly walnuts, almonds, macadamias, pumpkin seeds); organic eggs and meats (in particular, kangaroo). Evening primrose, borage and starflower oil have types of omega-6 that are also beneficial for skin.

• The most important nutrients for immune health are vitamins A, B, C, E and the minerals zinc and selenium.

• Herbs that balance the immune system include andrographis, astragalus, baical skullcap, calendula, cat’s claw, echinacea, picrorrhiza and Siberian ginseng.

• Herbs that are used specifically in eczema for a hyper-sensitive immune system include albizia, hemidesmus and perilla.

• Reduce physical and emotional stress. Stress is a primary trigger for unbalancing the immune system and provoking the onset of allergies. Many people find they develop food sensitivities and eczema after a stressful event in their life.

Improve the body’s ability to cope with stress using:

• Herbs (gotu kola, hops, licorice, passionflower, Siberian ginseng, skullcap, withania).

• Nutrients (kali phos, tyrosine).

• Flower remedies (Bach flowers, bush flowers).

• Stress management techniques (counselling, hypnosis, meditation, tai chi, yoga, Emotional Freedom Technique, NLP).

• Avoid physical stress (skipping meals, staying out late, eating processed foods, extreme body temperatures, extreme exercise, alcohol, cigarettes, coffee and recreational drugs).

• Improve digestive health. Most people don’t realize that 70 per cent of the body’s immune system is found in the digestive system.

• Treat leaky gut syndrome. This is a condition where undigested food particles cross the gut wall, enter the bloodstream and irritate the immune system. Substances that support gut wall healing are slippery elm powder, glutamine, glucosamine, MSM, the herbs marshmallow, aloe vera.

• Balance the gut flora. Having the correct ratio of beneficial bacteria in the gut has been shown in numerous studies to balance the immune system and reduce allergies. The most effective probiotics to do this are Lactobacillus rhamnosus, Lactobacillus acidophilus and Bifidobacterium lactis.

• Identify and remove food sensitivities. As with the external irritants, this can sometimes be tricky because skin flares don’t always occur immediately after eating the food. Common foods and chemicals that irritate eczema are wheat, gluten, dairy, egg (especially egg white in children), nuts and peanuts, shellfish, nightshades, citrus, salicylates, amines, glutamates, yeast and moulds, preservatives, colourings, flavours and sugar.

• Improve the body’s detoxification and elimination processes. Even though eczema is primarily an allergy-based skin condition, it’s still important to remember that skin is one of the major pathways of elimination in the body. If the liver or kidneys are under-functioning, an increased burden is placed on the skin. For someone already with eczema, accumulated wastes and toxins can worsen their skin condition. In addition, the liver is considered to be the seat of all allergies. This is because if it is sluggish and can’t get rid of toxins effectively, they will irritate the immune system and cause allergy symptoms such as eczema. So it’s important to support effective liver function (see Acne for suggestions).

External treatment

The primary goals of topical treatment are to calm, seal and repair the skin. This is achieved by the following strategies:

• Identify and avoid, where possible, external irritants (see list of common irritants above). This can be a difficult task, especially if the reaction isn’t immediate after contact or the offending substances are impossible to avoid (dustmites, grass, pollen, moulds). Look for patterns on the skin to indicate exposure. For example, dustmites in bed and furniture can produce eczema on the buttocks and back of the legs (chair, floor) or on the face and eyelids (pillow). An allergy to rubber can cause eczema on the hands (rubber gloves) or feet (rubber thongs). If the culprits aren’t obvious, a detailed history, careful observation of our skin’s reactions and trial and error will often reveal its identity. In atopic eczema there are probably a number of external irritants, so it can be a little more difficult to identify or avoid them all.

• Stop the itch-scratch cycle. Scratching and rubbing damage the skin’s physical structure, making it even more sensitive to irritants. This creates an allergy-inflammation cycle of increasing sensitivity and skin damage. Stopping the itch-scratch cycle is a critical part of eczema treatment. Unfortunately, scratching can become a compulsive habit, even when the skin isn’t itchy.

• Have tepid baths and showers. Apply soothing emollients while the skin is still wet after a shower or bath. Baths with oatmeal wash can be soothing and healing. Put oatmeal in a muslin cloth and tie, use as a wash ball.

• Wrap itchy areas with bandages, especially for children.

• Keep fingernails short and wear cotton mittens.

• Take natural antihistamines (vitamin C, quercetin).

• If needed, use steroid creams for short periods and at low doses until the itch-scratch cycle is broken.

• Repair the skin’s surface by applying soothing moisturisers and emollients. Finding an effective natural cream that will moisturise and protect skin can be a challenge. Many people report that they start using a cream with success, only to find that, over time, it begins to irritate, itch or dry their skin. Finding a suitable one requires patience and trial and error.

• Skin with eczema is extremely prone to infections with Staphyloccus aureas as well as fungal infections. These can both cause and worsen eczema. Keeping these infections under control can be achieved with natural anti-microbial washes and baths. In severe cases, a short course of antibiotics may be needed to control an infection. If you do need to take these, be sure to supplement with probiotics (see above) so that the digestive system doesn’t become further irritated.

Other topical applications that can be helpful include:

• Evening primrose oil, rich in GLA, can be soothing and anti-inflammatory.

• Zinc oxide cream can be helpful for soothing and also creating a barrier.

• Calendula cream can be soothing and help with wound healing.

• Herbal extracts of chamomile and licorice have shown promise in clinical trials.

• Organic coconut oil contains medium-chain fatty acids that give the oil healing properties. It is also anti-bacterial.

• Jojoba oil can be helpful as a moisturiser.

 

Read the label if you have sensitive skin , look for a product with the least number of ingredients listed as it will make it easier to decipher what you are allergic to. You want something that soothes the skin and protects skin cells from moisture loss and infection.

 

Psoriasis

Psoriasis is a common inflammatory skin condition affecting 1–2 per cent of people. It usually appears for the first time in the late teens or early 20s. A typical lesion is variably itchy, has a red and inflamed base with well-defined edges and topped with large silver scales. It can easily be mistaken for a fungal infection or eczema, so it’s important to be diagnosed correctly.

Psoriasis patches can be permanent and slow growing, or appear only during episodic flare-ups. It can involve any part of the body but is most common on the scalp, elbows, trunk, buttocks, knees and ankles. Fifty per cent of people also have white pits and ridging in the finger and toe nails and 5–10 per cent have arthritis in the smaller joints. This is commonly referred to as psoriatic arthritis.

There are different types of psoriasis and their classification is based on the lesions’ appearance and the age of onset. Three of the most common types are:

Plaque psoriasis is the most common form and usually appears in the late teens. A typical lesion is a patch of red skin with well-defined edges and covered with large silvery scales. This form of psoriasis is usually better in summer and worse in winter.

Guttate psoriasis often first appears in childhood or young adulthood after a throat infection with the bacteria group A streptococci. It affects the trunk, limbs and scalp with small, red droplet lesions that have little scale. Flares are often associated with streptococcal throat infections.

Flexural psoriasis, as its name suggests, appears in warm, moist areas such as under the arms and breasts, in the groin and between the buttocks. It forms extensive smooth, dry, red plaques without scaling and is easily mistaken for a fungal infection or eczema.

Causes and solutions

Psoriasis develops when skin cells turn over too rapidly. In healthy skin, new cells take about 30 days to form, migrate to the skin surface and be sloughed off. This process is controlled by two “energy” compounds in cells called cAMP and cGMP, which are balanced in healthy skin. However, when cGMP is raised, as in psoriasis, cells will be made at a faster rate. In fact, for a person with psoriasis, their cell turnover takes a mere 4–5 days, as opposed to the normal speed of 30 days. The rapid new cell production causes cells to accumulate at the skin’s surface because they can’t be sloughed off quickly enough, creating the characteristic scales.

Why this occurs in some people is not entirely understood, but we know the immune system is partly responsible for the onset of psoriasis, because it is an inflammatory skin condition and is able to be controlled in many people with immune-suppressive drugs. There is also a strong genetic component. However, while some people have an underlying inherited predisposition to psoriasis, there’s a number of other factors (diet, digestion, sugar metabolism, alcohol, toxicity and poor elimination, acidity, stress) that can trigger or exacerbate the condition. All genetic weaknesses need a trigger.

If we don’t digest our food, especially proteins, toxic compounds called polyamines are formed in the gut. These unbalance cGMP and cAMP by inhibiting the formation of cAMP, thereby promoting higher levels of cGMP. The outcome is faster cell turnover and eventually psoriasis in a person with a predisposition. Incomplete protein digestion can result from food allergies and intolerances, inadequate chewing, stomach irritation, deficient stomach acid, pancreatic enzymes and bile, and leaky gut syndrome.

Improve protein digestion:

• Improve your general digestion by chewing food until it’s liquid before swallowing; limiting fluid intake with meals; eating in a relaxed environment; and avoiding food sensitivities.

• Improve the breakdown of dietary proteins with digestive aids (betaine hydrochloride, pancreatic enzymes, Swedish bitters, digestive herbs, apple cider vinegar) and eating bitter foods with meals (dandelion, rocket, endive, chicory).

• Treat leaky gut syndrome to prevent undigested proteins seeping from the gut into the general immunity (see Eczema).

• Remove toxic compounds from the digestive system by ensuring at least one daily bowel motion. Eat a diet high in fibre-rich fruits, vegetables and whole grains and drink at least two litres of filtered water daily.

• Detoxify the digestive system with charcoal (taken away from food and medications), herbs (golden seal, St Mary’s thistle, aloe vera, marshmallow and sarsaparilla) and probiotics (acidophilus, bifidus). For more information and guidance, consult your healthcare practitioner.

• A strategy some people have found to be effective is to avoid all land animal proteins for at least two weeks. This includes beef, lamb, pork, chicken, egg, duck, turkey, dairy and their products. Anything that isn’t land animal based can be consumed, including fish and other seafood. This regime’s success for some is probably due to the decreased formation of polyamines. However, this is a restrictive diet and should be done under the supervision of a naturopath or nutritionist.

Naturally support the immune system and reduce inflammation:

• There is a strong link between psoriasis and a bacterium called A beta-haemolytic streptococci with many people reporting an infected sore throat just before a flare-up of psoriasis lesions. As this bacteria is present in everyone, it’s believed that in people with a predisposition to psoriasis, the bacteria is able to make a type of toxin that causes widespread inflammation and disrupts the immune system. While this is merely a theory, we do know the immune system is highly involved in psoriasis and everything needs to be done to keep the immune system balanced and supported.

• Change your toothbrush regularly and at night soak it in anti-microbial herbs or colloidal silver to reduce bacterial infections. Don’t share toothbrushes.

• At the first sign of a throat infection, gargle with anti-microbial agents (Swedish bitters, colloidal silver, hot salty water, the herbs thyme, licorice, goldenseal, sage and myrrh, essential oils tea-tree and lavender).

• Balance the immune system with nutrients, herbs (see Eczema) and improve gut and digestive function (see above).

• Reduce inflammation with a diet rich in anti-inflammatory omega-3 fatty acids (see Eczema).

Reduce stress:

Nearly every person with psoriasis reports that stress is the number one factor that exacerbates their skin problem. Although most people consider stress to be an emotional or mental state, physical stressors have similar detrimental effects on the body. In particular, stress affects the digestive and immune systems — both highly implicated in psoriasis. See Eczema for strategies to deal with stress.

Balance sugar metabolism:

Studies show psoriasis is linked to insulin resistance, abnormal glucose metabolism and type 2 diabetes, so it’s important to follow a low-glycaemic diet and balance blood sugar levels (see Ageing Skin —Glycation for strategies).

Reduce the body’s acidity by eating an alkaline diet:

• Dr John O.A. Pagano in his book Healing Psoriasis claims that balancing the acid/alkaline chemistry of the body through diet is absolutely crucial to the resolution of psoriasis. Foods that leave an alkaline residue once digested are referred to as alkaline foods and vice versa with acid foods. Pagano says the diet should consist of 80 per cent alkaline and 20 per cent healthy acid foods. I have found that success can be achieved with a 60–70 per cent ratio of alkaline foods to 30–40 per cent healthy acidic foods.

• Alkaline foods include most fruits (except cranberries, currants, prunes, plums and blueberries) and vegetables.

• Acid foods are everything else. Choose healthy acid foods such as lean meat, poultry and dairy, seafood, whole grains and legumes.

• Each morning, start the day with an alkalising cup of boiled water and the juice of a quarter of a fresh lemon.

• Green superfoods such as barley grass, wheat grass and chlorella are highly alkalising.

Support the body’s detoxification and elimination pathways:

Clinical experience shows that a general cleanse of the body’s tissue and fluids can significantly decrease the severity and size of psoriasis lesions. This is because accumulated metabolic wastes and toxins increase the acidity of blood, lymph and body tissue. In addition, if the liver and kidneys are over-burdened, the skin will need to excrete more toxins to keep the body in balance (see Acne).

External treatment

Topical treatments are usually the first line of defence in the treatment of psoriasis. However, as with any skin condition, once the treatment is stopped, the psoriasis nearly always returns because the underlying causes haven’t been addressed. But, as with acne, eczema and rosacea, many people can obtain relief and speed the healing process if they use effective and safe topical treatments.

The standard topical treatments for psoriasis include steroids and coal tar. These can both be damaging to the skin and are merely quick fixes. Many companies now make natural creams for psoriasis that aim to soften skin, reduce scaling and inflammation and slow the rate of skin cell turnover. Again, it’s trial and error with these creams, but look for a treatment that uses natural ingredients and doesn’t use artificial preservatives such as parabens. Some proven natural treatments include:

• An ointment made from the Chinese herb Indigo naturalis has been found to be effective in the treatment of psoriasis over a 12-week period.

• Aloe vera gel from the plant applied over a 16-week period.

• Apple cider vinegar applied directly to skin, added to a bath or used as a soak for finger and toe nails.

• Capsaicin, a natural ingredient found in peppers, helps to reduce redness, scaling and itching of the skin. In addition, it can also help to reduce joint pain found in psoriatic arthritis. Capsaicin tincture can be added to creams and lotions.

• Soothe inflamed skin with moisturisers and emollients applied after bathing while the skin is still wet.

• Avoid over-washing and over-sweating.

• Shower and bathe in lukewarm rather than hot water.

• Air or pat dry areas with psoriasis.

 

Rosacea

Rosacea is a chronic acne-like eruption on the face. It is characterised by small red bumps that typically develop across the cheeks and nose but may also appear on the chin, forehead and neck. It commonly affects people over the age of 40, but younger people can develop rosacea and it shouldn’t be ruled out as a diagnosis if under 30 years of age.

Rosacea usually begins with intermittent flushing and vasodilation of the blood vessels across the nose and cheeks in response to certain food and environmental triggers. Over time, the flushing becomes more frequent, until the skin is permanently red and irritated. While an exact cause hasn’t been agreed on, there are links between rosacea and poor digestion, vitamin B deficiencies, hormonal imbalances and the overgrowth of a mite called Demodex folliculorum.

Solutions

Support digestion:

Studies show that people with rosacea often have low stomach acid, low pancreatic enzymes and/or the presence of Helicobacter pylori in the stomach. These three factors will lead to poor digestion and absorption of nutrients from the diet, as well as the overgrowth of unfriendly micro-organisms in the gut.

• Improve general digestion by chewing food until it’s liquid before swallowing; limiting fluid intake with meals; eating in a relaxed environment; and avoiding food sensitivities.

• Supplement with digestive aids and eat bitter foods with meals (see Psoriasis).

• Have a test for Helicobacter pylori. If positive, this will need to be treated immediately. Pharmaceutical treatment involves a triple antibiotic therapy. If you do this, make sure you supplement with acidophilus and bifidus. If you decide to treat more naturally, see a qualified practitioner for anti-microbial herbs and treatments.

Reduce vasodilation of blood vessels:

• The first symptom people with rosacea usually notice is a continual flushing across the cheeks and nose, which is caused by vasodilation of the tiny blood vessels under the skin. This can be exacerbated by a number of heating, dietary and environmental factors.

• Herbalists and TCM practitioners use certain foods and herbs to cool the body’s internal temperature for hot skin conditions.

• Cooling foods include apples, bananas, pears, rockmelon, watermelon, lettuce, cucumber, celery, spinach, bok choy, yogurt, raw food, most grains, bitter green salad vegetables (dandelion, chicory, radicchio), steamed red cabbage and tofu.

• Heating foods to avoid are red meat, spicy foods, chilli, cayenne, coffee, shellfish, garlic and onions.

• Minimise alcohol as it’s a common trigger for flushing in the face because it causes the tiny capillaries near the skin’s surface to dilate.

• Eating foods rich in bioflavonoids such as berries can increase capillary strength.

Correct a possible vitamin B deficiency:

Vitamin B deficiencies and in particular B₂ (riboflavin), may be a causative factor in the development of rosacea. Studies show that supplementing with these nutrients to be an effective strategy for some.

• Eat foods that are rich in vitamin B (whole grains, egg yolks, broccoli, nuts, green leafy vegetables, avocado, spirulina).

• Supplement with a daily vitamin B complex and an extra 100mg of B₂. For some people with rosacea, this will dramatically improve their condition, so it’s worth trying even if you regularly eat foods high in vitamin B.

• Ensure good digestive function so that vitamins and minerals may be absorbed and assimilated from your diet.

Balance hormones:

Although no direct link has been found between rosacea and oestrogen, some women find that their rosacea starts after menopause and others find that their skin either improves or worsens when they are pregnant.

• If rosacea starts around menopause, follow strategies to improve oestrogen balance (see Ageing Skin).

• If pregnancy affects your rosacea, don’t try to adjust hormone levels. Instead, ensure that digestion and nutrient intake are optimal.

External treatment

People with rosacea need to be very careful not to irritate or further sensitise their skin. Regimes should be simple with a pH-balanced non-foaming cleanser and moisturiser specially designed for rosacea. Avoid exfoliation as it can further irritate skin and only use treatments that are gentle, soothing and chemical free. The three main aspects of any treatments that you include in your skin regime are:

• Reduce inflammation. Cooling gels and foods can be applied as masks after cleaning to help reduce inflammation and redness. They might include aloe vera gel, pulped cucumber or slices, yoghurt or avocado, colloidal oatmeal, chamomile. There are many natural skincare companies that produce very good treatments designed to reduce redness and inflammation without irritating the skin.

• Avoid paraben preservatives, including methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, which are commonly found in many mass-marketed facial cleansers, shampoos, conditioners, moisturisers and makeup. While these are not good for anyone’s skin, recent studies have shown that they have a specially detrimental effect on the skin of rosacea suffers, causing inflammation, redness and an increase in the numbers and frequency of papules and pustules. The skin may not be affected immediately but appears to worsen over time. When discontinuing these products, many people found an initial breakout associated with the skin detoxifying itself, but this cleared in a week or so.

• Reduce vasodilation. Topical products that are vasodilators, such as benzyl peroxide, menthol, alcohol, witch-hazel, glycolic acid and salicylic acid should be avoided.

• Avoid prolonged sun exposure, hot showers, saunas and spas; over-heating in bed; and sitting too close to heaters and open fires.

• Reduce microbial infestation. Many standard treatments for rosacea involve using topical antibiotics. This is because some researchers suspect a bacterium or other infectious agent may be the cause. A common skin mite called Demodex folliculorum is found in significantly higher quantities on the skin of rosacea sufferers than on unaffected skin. As the mite is also found on the skin and hair follicles of people who do not have the condition, it’s believed that certain people have an immune reaction to the mite that causes it to become out of control and/or for the hair follicles to react negatively. The same mite has also been linked to the skin condition keratosis pilaris. Antibiotic and anti-inflammatory ointments from your GP may give temporary relief, but the underlying cause needs to be addressed. If you feel uncomfortable using antibiotics, you could try wiping the skin after cleansing with one of the following natural anti-microbial substances:

  • 1 part apple cider vinegar to 4 parts water

  • 2 drops tea-tree oil in 20 drops of water

  • colloidal silver

  • manuka honey

A promising new natural treatment for controlling the demodex mite is sea buckthorn oil. Companies are starting to use this oil in products that are specifically designed for rosacea or keratosis pilaris with great results. Silymarin has also been seen to improve rosacea.

 

A–Z of other skin complaints

Age spots

Flat brown spots that occur anywhere on the body as it ages, often found on the back of the hands, face and neck. They are also called liver spots or brown spots.

Causes

• A buildup of wastes that are a byproduct of free-radical damage in skin cells.

• Excessive sun exposure and damage.

• A diet that is high in free radical production and low in antioxidant intake.

Treatment

• Cysteine (found in most high-protein foods), along with Glutamic acid and glycine make up the tripeptide, glutathione, an important antioxidant detoxifying chemical compounds and peroxides, and protecting cells from free-radical damage. We produce our own glutathione and levels can be increased by what we consume (see Healthy Skin Diet, pg40).

• Levels of glutathione decrease after age 40 and low levels are associated with increasing the ageing process. Excessive alcohol, acetaminophen, and cigarette smoke deplete glutathione levels. N-acetyl-L-cysteine may be even more effective in raising glutathione levels in the lungs, kidneys, liver and bone marrow than L-cysteine or even L-glutathione supplementation.

• By boosting the glutathione levels, anti-ageing effects have been noted, such as the reduced appearance of age spots. Alpha lipoic acid is a potent antioxidant that is both water- and fat-soluble. Both these nutrients and vitamin E help preserve stores of glutathione.

• Lipoic acid is naturally occurring in the mitochondria of both plant leaves (such as spinach) and red meat. The best food sources of lipoic acid are potatoes, yeast and liver, though ingesting a substantial dose from a naturally occurring diet is virtually impossible. To obtain 200mg of lipoic acid, for example, one would have to eat 90kg of spinach.

• See Ageing Skin — Free Radical Damage for strategies to reduce free radical damage and increase antioxidant intake.

External treatment

• Vitamin C — many companies now make intensive vitamin C serums and creams. To make your own, mix oil-soluble vitamin C ester (also called ascorbyl palmitate) with an absorbent moisturiser and rub into spots twice daily.

• Rosehip oil — packed with antioxidants, this light oil can be applied morning and night.

• Alpha lipoic acid — this potent antioxidant is beneficial when used both topically and internally. Open a capsule and mix half of the powder with an absorbent moisturiser. Rub into spots twice a day. Some people find their skin becomes red on first applications, so gradually build the amount over time.

• Retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids can also be affective.

 

Boils

Round pus-filed nodules on the skin that are the result of a blocked hair follicle becoming infected with Staphylococcus aureus bacteria. They often develop in clusters or can be a single boil. The pus is contagious and, if the boil bursts, can contaminate the nearby skin.

Causes

Chronic boils can indicate:

• Poor sugar balance and metabolism.

• Diabetes.

• Poor liver detoxification and high toxin levels within the body.

• Congested lymph flow and compromised immune system.

Treatment

• Take anti-microbial herbs to treat the bacterial infection: Chinese wormwood, garlic, golden seal, olive leaf, Oregon grape root, thyme.

• Antibiotics are needed if the boils keep spreading and don’t resolve.

• Promote effective detoxification, elimination and lymph flow.

• If recurring, have your blood sugar level tested for diabetes.

• Avoid sugar and refined carbohydrates.

• Boost and balance your immune system with herbs and nutrients (see Eczema).

External treatment

• Regularly apply any of the following anti-microbial agents to the boil to help heal the infection: colloidal silver, golden seal tincture, tea-tree oil, neem oil, lavender oil, myrrh oil, manuka honey.

• Apply a warm, wet compress to help the boil come to a head faster. There are many home remedies for compresses. Some include kaolin clay, epsom salts, ground linseeds, and slippery elm powder. Mix powders with hot water and apply with a cloth.

• If you are prone to boils, it’s important to exfoliate skin regularly with scrubs and dry skin brushing to keep hair follicles unblocked. Don’t do this on active boils, though.

 

Broken capillaries

See Rosacea

 

Bruising (chronic)

Chronic bruising occurs after the slightest bump and takes a long time to heal. Bruising happens when the capillaries (tiny blood vessels) break and blood leaks out into the tissues. Until the body can re-absorb the blood that leaked, there will be a bruise.

Causes

• Some medications can cause chronic bruising: steroids, anti-depressants, some asthma medications, blood-thinning medication (aspirin, heparin, warfarin).

• Iron deficient anaemia.

• Weak blood vessel walls.

• Vitamin K deficiency as it’s needed to seal the leaking blood.

Treatment

• Strengthen capillary walls so they won’t break as easily by increasing vitamin C and bioflavonoid intake. Eat a diet rich in citrus, yellow and green fruits and vegetables. Or take 1000mg of vitamin C and bioflavonoids three times a day. Vitamin C also helps with the absorption of dietary iron.

• If you suspect a vitamin K deficiency, have it tested. Use only under supervision. Foods rich in vitamin K are alfalfa and green leafy vegetables. If taking blood thinners, though, vitamin K should be avoided.

• If supplementing with iron, take a natural form that doesn’t cause constipation (Floradix, iron amino acid chelate). Increase iron-rich foods in the diet (red meat, liver, dark poultry meat, egg yolks, green leafy vegetables, nuts, legumes, blackstrap molasses)

• Arnica can also be very effective.

External treatment

• Vitamin K cream is used topically for chronic bruising.

• Arnica is also very effective.

 

Dry and flaky skin

Dry skin has a low level of sebum and water. It is often sensitive and usually feels taut and uncomfortable after washing unless some type of moisturiser is applied. This type of skin is prone to premature ageing if not cared for properly.

Causes

• Nutrient deficiencies (essential fatty acids, protein and sulphur-based amino acids, vitamin A and betacarotene, biotin, silica).

• Chronic internal dehydration.

• Inadequate exfoliation of the skin.

• Thyroid imbalance, in particular low thyroid function (hypo-thyroid).

• Environmental factors such as exposure to sun, wind, cold, chemicals, cosmetics, or washing with harsh, alkaline, foaming cleansers.

Treatment

• Include essential fatty acids in your daily diet (fish, avocado, nuts, flaxseed) and supplement if needed (fish oil capsules or liquid, krill oil, flaxseed oil, evening primrose oil).

• Eat a protein-rich diet high in the sulphur-based amino acids methionine and cysteine (eggs, meats, nuts, poultry, fish). These amino acids can also be taken as supplements. MSM is a sulphur-based supplement that is excellent for dry skin and hair.

• Take a vitamin B complex that includes biotin daily.

• Eat foods rich in vitamin A and betacarotene (see Seborrhoeic Dermatitis).

• Eat foods rich in silica (rolled oats, vegetable skins, bean sprouts, the herb horsetail).

• Improve body hydration levels (see Ageing Skin).

• If you also experience any of the following — dry, brittle hair, constipation, cold extremities or depression — have your thyroid levels tested.

External treatment

• Never wash with soap or a foaming cleaner. Also choose a cream-based pH-balanced cleanser that is rinsed with tepid water or tissued off.

• Use moisturisers morning and night and apply to skin that is still moist. Use a moisturiser that contains hyaluronic acid. This is a carbohydrate that occurs naturally in every cell of the body and is described as “nature’s moisturiser”.

• If skin is also flaky, gentle regular exfoliation will help moisturisers penetrate and makeup glide on more smoothly. Oatmeal, almond meal and ground linseeds are gentle and easy to make. (see Acne)

 

Enlarged pores and blackheads

(See Acne)

Pores look enlarged because of the skin’s oiliness.

Cause

This skin type is primarily inherited but is worsened by a combination of two main factors:

• From the inside, the pores have a buildup of wastes due to inefficient elimination pathways and an excess of oil (hormonal).

• From the outside the dead skin cells are not being sloughed off properly, causing the wastes and sebum to become trapped. This leads to enlarged pores and blackheads.

Treatment

• The oilier the skin, the more enlarged the pores look. This is largely due to the levels of testosterone (see Acne for strategies to balance oily skin from the inside).

• Improve detoxification and elimination of wastes through the skin, liver and kidneys (see Acne).

External treatment

• Regular exfoliation is vital for sloughing off dead skin cells (see Acne for topical treatments for oily skin).

 

Folliculitis

The inflammation of one or more hair follicles. It looks like a rash of small, raised pimples, sometimes with heads. It starts with trauma or blockage of the hair follicle that then becomes infected with the bacteria Staphylococcus aures.

Causes

• Trauma to the hair follicle is caused by hair removal methods, dressings and sports tape.

• A pre-existing skin condition such as acne, eczema or contact dermatitis.

• Long-term antibiotic use for acne.

• Lymphatic congestion and poor immunity.

Treatment

• Internal treatment involves controlling the infection and reducing lymphatic congestion (see Boils).

External treatment

• Apply anti-microbial agents (see Boils).

• Avoid further irritation (don’t shave; wear loose clothing).

• Regular dry skin brushing will help prevent hair follicle blockages.

• Many people find applying a lotion that contains salicylic acid to be effective. However, be careful with this treatment as over time it can make skin more sensitive and increases sun sensitivity.

 

Fungal infections and rashes

Fungal infections can occur almost anywhere on the body, including on the feet or between the toes, around the groin or on the torso, hands, face or scalp. These infections are caused by different types of fungus. They can cause rashes with a variety of different appearances. Many are red, scaly and itchy, whereas others can produce a fine scale similar to dry skin. There are too many types to list but the most common species are candida and tinea.

Causes

• Chronic recurrent fungal infections indicates a weakened immune system and/or gut dysbiosis. This is a condition in which the “beneficial” bacteria of the gut (eg acidophilus and bifidus) are outnumbered by commensals (most commonly candida). In a healthy gut, beneficial bacteria and commensals live in harmony side by side.

• Certain drugs (antibiotics, oral contraceptive pill, steroids), a high sugar or alcohol diet, recreational drugs and so on cause an imbalance by depleting the levels of beneficial bacteria, thus allowing commensals to over-grow. Depending on the severity of the imbalance, the immune system can become weakened and one can suffer continual fungal infections (vaginal thrush, oral thrush, nipple thrush, athlete’s foot, tinea infections of the skin and nail, jock itch, ringworm).

• On the other hand, it’s also possible to simply “catch” one of the fungal infections from public showers, pools, other people’s towels, animals and intercourse. In most cases, this doesn’t indicate a weakened immune system and they can usually be treated topically.

Treatment

For chronic reoccurring fungal infections:

• Use a high-quality acidophilus/bifidus supplement at bedtime for at least two months. Alternate brands as they contain different strains.

• Support the growth of friendly bacteria with dietary prebiotics. These foods stimulate the growth of friendly flora:  asparagus, banana, endive, garlic, globe and Jerusalem artichokes, kefir, leek, onion, miso, sauerkraut, shallots, yoghurt.

• Avoid unnecessary antibiotics.

• Eat a low-glycaemic (GI) diet that avoids sugars and refined carbohydrates. Fungi thrive on sugar.

• Garlic is a potent anti-fungal. Eat daily or supplement with two capsules three times daily.

• Biotin inhibits yeast. Take 300mcg three times daily.

• Support the immune system with vitamins A, C and B complex, zinc and selenium.

• Anti-fungal herbs help to balance the gut bacteria by culling the commensals (artemisia annua, black walnut, cloves, garlic, golden seal, olive leaf, pau d’arco, thyme, wormwood). Use under supervision.

External treatment

For most skin fungal infections:

• Keep the skin clean and dry. Expose the affected area to the air as much as possible.

• Use crushed garlic topically over the affected area and cover with a sterile gauze or cotton cloth that allows air to penetrate.

• Extra-virgin coconut oil is a powerful anti-fungal. Use this as a carrier oil for the following anti-fungal essential oils: tea-tree oil, neem oil, lavender oil, myrrh oil, oregano oil.

For vaginal thrush infections:

• Suppositories can be bought from the chemist or made at home with garlic and yogurt.

• Douches can be made with anti-fungal essential oils, herbs or apple cider vinegar.

• See a practitioner for guidance.

 

Keratosis pilaris

A very common genetic follicular condition that is manifested by the appearance of rough bumps on the skin, keratosis pilaris occurs when the body produces excess keratin that surrounds and entraps a hair follicle in the pore. This causes the formation of hard plugs (known as hyperkeratinisation). The painless bumps are skin-coloured, although they can become red and inflamed at times. Usually, many plugs form in an area, causing patches of rough, bumpy skin. It’s commonly found on the upper arms, legs and cheeks.

Causes

While this condition appears to have a strong genetic basis, an exact trigger or cause has yet to be determined. Some suggestions include:

• The common skin mite Demodex folliculorum is thought to be implicated. This is the same mite associated with rosacea.

• Some studies suggest the condition may be androgen-dependent.

• Vitamin A deficiency.

• Dry skin conditions. Affected skin usually worsens in winter and improves in summer.

Treatment

• Reduce the presence of the Demodex folliculorum mite (see Rosacea).

• Increase foods rich in vitamin A (see Seborrhoeic Dermatitis). You may also wish to supplement with vitamin A (not if you are pregnant).

• Eat foods rich in zinc to help the absorption of vitamin A (see Acne).

• If you have high levels of testosterone, use treatments that regulate this hormone (see Acne).

External treatment

• Many people find applying a lotion that contains salicylic acid to be effective. However, be careful with this treatment as over time it can make skin more sensitive and increases sun sensitivity.

• Topical vitamin A has been found to be effective for many (this will also make you sun-sensitive).

• Soften skin in a bath and then gently exfoliate to remove keratin plugs.

• Keep skin well-moisturised to avoid it over-drying, especially in colder weather.

• Some people find that regular safe sun exposure helps them (but be careful if using any sun-sensitising treatments).

 

Liver spots

See Age Spots

 

Loss of skin tone

(see Ageing Skin)

Loss of skin tone is usually associated with ageing. One way to test the skin’s elasticity and tone is to pinch the skin on the back of the hand. It should snap back like a fresh rubber band.

Causes

• Age-related loss of collagen.

• Weight loss.

• Potassium deficiency.

Treatment

• If age-related, see Ageing Skin.

• Keep weight stable and avoid sudden weight loss where possible

• Reduce salt intake and switch to Celtic sea salt, a natural salt that includes adequate amounts of potassium.

• Regularly eat foods rich in potassium (bananas, apricots, potatoes, raisins, prunes and prune juice, oranges and orange juice, yogurt, rockmelon, honeydew melon).

External treatment

• See Ageing Skin.

 

Sebaceous cysts

these are skin growths that contain a mixture of oil and proteins. They usually appear in the same places that pimples and acne occur — face, neck, chest and back. However, they can occur in people who don’t have acne or oily skin. They usually don’t have heads and aren’t painful (unlike boils), but sometimes can become infected.

Causes

• A diet high in unhealthy oils and fats (see Oily Skin).

• Faulty fat metabolism.

• Congested lymph flow.

Treatment

• Daily essential fatty acids (see Eczema), eaten and taken as supplements.

• Minimise unhealthy fats and cooking methods.

• Promote effective detoxification, elimination and lymph flow (see Acne).

• Improve fat metabolism with herbs (oregon grape root, St Mary’s thistle, fumitory, globe artichoke, dandelion), digestive enzymes and lecithin capsules or granules.

External treatment

• A poultice can help to draw out the pus, but the cysts usually don’t have heads on them, which can make this process difficult.

• Often they need to be cosmetically pierced and drained by a dermatologist.

 

Seborrhoeic dermatitis

A disorder of the oil-secreting glands that causes flaking of the skin. On the scalp it is called dandruff and in babies it’s called cradle cap. It can also appear anywhere on the body. The skin can look yellowish and greasy or dry and flaky.

Causes

• Fungal infection by the yeast Pityrosporum ovale.

• A diet high in unhealthy oils and fats (see Sebaceous Cysts).

• Improper fat metabolism.

• Biotin deficiency.

• Vitamin A deficiency.

• In babies, cradle cap can also be caused by leftover hormones from the mother or food sensitivities.

Treatment

For adults:

• Take and eat essential fatty acids (see Eczema) daily.

• Take a vitamin B complex that includes biotin daily.

• Eat foods high in zinc (see Acne) and take a supplement of 50mg daily for four weeks.

• Increase foods rich in vitamin A (liver, dairy, eggs) and carotenoids (spinach, chicory, carrots, sweet potato, broccoli, rockmelon, apricots, romaine lettuce, parsley).

For babies with cradle cap:

• If breast-fed, good results are achieved if the mother supplements with essential fatty acids, vitamin B complex and biotin. Increase foods rich in zinc and vitamin A.

• If formula-fed, use a high-quality formula that contains these ingredients.

• Biotin levels can be improved in babies by supplementing with a probiotic designed for infants. If over six months, a liquid vitamin B that contains biotin could be added to a bottle.

External treatment

• For adults, see Fungal Infections.

• Try using hair products that don’t contain sodium laureth sulphate, as this is a common scalp irritator. Also try using a shower filter to reduce exposure to chlorine, another common irritator.

• For cradle cap, rub in a natural oil (almond, avocado, vitamin E) and leave overnight. Wash with a mild baby shampoo the next day and this should loosen flakes.

 

Spider veins

Thin, dilated blood vessels that lie close to the skin’s surface and are either red, blue or purple, spider veins usually appear on the face, hands and legs.

Causes

Same as for varicose veins.

Treatment

• Treatment is similar to that for varicose veins, as the aim is to strengthen blood vessel walls and improve circulation.

• Herbs specific for spider veins include bilberry and grapeseed extract.

External treatment

• Same as for varicose veins

• Some claim vitamin K cream used topically will treat spider veins.

 

Stretch marks

These are a form of scarring on the skin that appear in stripes and can be purple, red or white. They often occur on the abdomen, thighs, hips, buttocks and breasts — all the areas that can have rapid weight gain.

Causes

• Pregnancy.

• Rapid weight change for any reason — larger or smaller.

Treatment

• Nutrients and herbs that support connective tissue will help prevent stretch marks occurring in the first place (see Ageing Skin).

External treatment

• To prevent stretch marks, rub an oil mixture into the skin twice a day. Effective oils that are safe for pregnancy are almond, avocado, wheatgerm and jojoba.

• Once stretch marks have occurred, it’s difficult to eliminate them completely. To help them fade faster, try rubbing in squalene oil, vitamin E oil straight from the capsule, rosehip oil or aloe vera gel.

Varicose veins

Prominent dark blue blood vessels, especially in the legs and feet, which can become sore and tender after standing for any length of time.

Causes

• Poor circulation — made worse by smoking, lack of exercise, shallow breathing, diabetes, regularly wearing constrictive clothing.

• Hormonal fluctuations during pregnancy and menopause.

• Obesity.

• Prolonged standing or sitting.

• Constipation and straining.

• Constrictive clothing.

Treatment

The aim is to strengthen blood vessel walls and improve circulation. Strengthen blood vessels with:

• Nutrients — beta-carotene, B complex, vitamin C, bioflavonoids (in particular rutin and quercetin), vitamin E, bromelain, grapeseed extract.

• Tissue salts — calc fluor improves the elasticity of blood vessel walls.

• Herbs — horse chestnut, bilberry, butcher’s broom.

Improve peripheral circulation to the limbs with these herbs and spices:

• Chilli, cayenne pepper, ginkgo, garlic, goji, gotu cola, hawthorn, prickly ash, rosemary and turmeric.

External treatment

• Keep legs raised at least 10 minutes a day.

• Regular exercise stimulates circulation and helps to prevent varicose veins occurring in the first place.

• Essential oils ypress, geranium and chamomile — mix a few drops of one or more oils into a carrier oil such as almond, avocado or macadamia. Gently apply the mixture to the legs by stroking upward in the direction of the heart. Don’t massage directly on the veins.

• Yoga poses such as the plough, corpse and half shoulder stand promote circulation and the drainage of blood from the legs.

 

Vitiligo

A chronic skin disease that causes loss of pigment, resulting in irregular pale patches of skin. It occurs when the melanocytes, cells responsible for skin pigmentation, die or are unable to function.

Causes

• It’s generally unknown why some people experience this skin condition. It is believed to be autoimmune in nature.

• It’s triggered by excessive sun exposure and sunburn, especially when skin peels. The patches of white are usually at the site of the burnt skin, but it’s also possible for patches of white skin to start appearing elsewhere once the process has been triggered.

Treatment

• Traditional Chinese herbs appear to be the most successful treatments. In TCM, vitiligo is described as a condition that has “heat in the blood”, “invasion by wind or damp” and “blockage of the channels and vessels”.

• See a TCM herbalist for a formula to suit you.

• The Chinese herb Psoralea corylifolia has been used for centuries to treat vitiligo. It contains psoralen, which is used by dermatologists with UVA light to initiate inactive melanocytes to reproduce pigment.

• The herb ginkgo biloba has been shown to successfully treat vitiligo in some people at a dose of 40mg three times a day for six months.

• Certain nutrients are needed for the production of melanin by the melanocytes (tyrosine, vitamins B₅, B₉, B₁₂ and C and the mineral copper). Many people with vitiligo are found to be deficient in folic acid. Vitamin C is needed for the metabolism of folic acid as well as a crucial step in the transformation of tyrosine in to melanin.

• Supplement with 2000mg of folic acid daily as well as 1000mg of vitamin C three times daily.

External treatment

• Psoralea corylifolia is the main ingredient in most of the herbal as well as home remedies used for topical treatments.

 

Warts

Warts are benign skin tumours that typically occur on the hands, knees, elbows and feet. The most common types include the common wart (raised with a roughened surface), the plantar wart (hard lump with a black speck in the centre) and genital warts in the genital region.

Causes

• They are caused by a virus called human papilloma virus (HPV). There are more than 100 strains of this virus that cause different types of warts. For example, type 1 HPV causes plantar warts on the soles of the feet; type 2 causes the common wart as well as others; and types 6 and 11 cause most genital warts.

Treatment

• If you chronically suffer from warts, it may indicate a weakness in your immune system. Therefore it’s important to balance the immune system (see Eczema).

• Studies have shown that vitamin C, folic acid and zinc are particularly important to fight the HPV virus. Take 3000mg of vitamin C daily in divided doses, 25mg of zinc daily and 2000mcg of folic acid daily.

• Sulphur-containing amino acids (cysteine, methionine) are also important for the prevention and treatment of warts. Food sources include eggs, asparagus, citrus fruits, garlic, onions and MSM powder.

External treatment

There are many folk remedies for treating warts with ingredients from home. Garlic is probably the most tried and tested. Here are two methods:

• Using fresh garlic, cut a garlic clove in half and rub the smooth surface on the warts. Cover with a Band-aid overnight and wash garlic off in the morning. This method can take up to 10 weeks to be effective.

• Oil-soluble garlic extract can be applied directly to warts twice a day. It can work effectively within 2–3 weeks, but people commonly have side-effects that include blistering, redness and burning of the skin around the application. It generally disappears within a few weeks and a Vaseline-type ointment can be applied to try to prevent this.

 

Wrinkles

See Ageing Skin

 

 

Alison Cassar is a nutritionist and naturopath based in Sydney. She is the co-author of Radiant Skin, Radiant Health, ABC Books.