Brussels Sprouts
If you still don’t like Brussels sprouts, label yourself a “supertaster”, the term coined in the 1990s for people who are more sensitive to bitter tastes than others, and give up on them.
Brussels sprouts are part of the vast cabbage family collectively referred to as brassicas. Of all the vegies in this family, it’s Brussels sprouts that polarise the population: people either love them or loathe them.
While many blame their aversion to Brussels sprouts on eating
overcooked sprouts in the past, recent research has shown that
sprouts taste different to different palates and to some they do have a bitter and nasty flavour.
If you’ve hated sprouts in the past but want to give these nutritious vegies one more chance, try sautéing them or toss a few in a stirfry. If you still don’t like them, label yourself a “supertaster”, the term coined in the 1990s for people who are more sensitive to bitter tastes than others, and give up on them.
But if you do enjoy the flavour of Brussels sprouts and want to try
to grow your own, read on!
Best growing conditions
Brussels sprouts are axillary buds — that means they form on
the main stem, which grows tall and stout. Left unpicked, they’ll
become flowers.
Brussels sprouts can be tricky to produce in Australian gardens
as they don’t like hot, dry weather and are not suited to subtropical
or tropical zones. In unsuitable conditions, plants may grow readily, but sprouts may fail to form or fail to expand beyond marble size. Alternatively, they become fluffy or “blown”. Blown sprouts are still good to eat and worth harvesting.
In cold climates, sow seed from spring to early autumn but restrict sowing to summer in temperate zones. Seedlings can be planted up until early autumn in both zones.
Timing of planting is critical for the production of good sprouts. Production and sprout formation is at its best when conditions are cool and days are shortening, which is why the timing of seed sowing is so critical to success. Sprouts take four to fi ve months to form, so late planting means sprouts are forming in spring as the weather is warming and days getting longer.
So, did they come from Brussels?
Although there’s no firm documentation to say that Brussels
sprouts came from Brussels, they have been known by this name since the mid-18th century. In his book Heirloom Vegetables, heritage vegetable expert Simon Rickard says it’s likely they did come from this area as the climate of northern Europe is conducive to growing good Brussels sprouts.
Raising sprouts
Sow seeds into a seedling punnet or seed tray where they take six to 10 days to germinate. Transplant seedlings into small individual pots when they are big enough to handle. Allow them to grow on until they are around 7cm high and ready to be planted out into the garden.
When planting purchased seedlings, soak the punnet well, then gently separate the seedlings. This is done to avoid root damage. Space seedlings about 60cm apart in rows and allow at least the same distance between rows. This wide spacing allows each plant room to grow.
As the plants develop, encourage good growth with regular feeds of a liquid fertiliser high in potassium and phosphorus. Even though they’re growing through autumn and winter, don’t stint on water as these plants don’t like to dry out. In windy areas, they may need to be staked — or select a compact variety such as the heritage variety ‘Long Island Improved’.
Number one pest
As with other brassicas, Brussels sprouts are at the mercy of cabbage white butterfly caterpillars. These green caterpillars chew holes in the leaves and may damage the sprouts. The best control method is to regularly hand pick the caterpillars, checking both sides of the leaves as the young caterpillars usually feed on the undersides.
Also watch for cabbage white butterflies flitting around in the
vegetable garden and check the foliage for clusters of eggs (small
white eggs usually found under the leaves).
Sacrificial plantings of nasturtium grown near the vegie bed can act as an early warning system as cabbage white caterpillars love these plants, too. If you spot caterpillars on nasturtiums, check for the pest on the Brussels sprouts and other brassicas in your vegie garden.
Harvest, storage & keeping
Brussels sprouts look like miniature cabbages sprouting up the stem of each plant. They form in the leaf axil (where the leaves join the stem), developing in the lower axils first. Carefully snapping off the leaf beside the developing sprout can encourage larger buds to develop.
With most home-garden varieties, particularly heritage varieties,
the bottom sprouts are ready first, so harvest the crop progressively up the stem over several weeks. Modern hybrids mature at the same time and so need to be picked all at once.
Store sprouts in a plastic bag in the crisper section of the fridge for up to 10 days or blanch and freeze to use your harvest through the year. To blanch Brussels sprouts, remove loose outer leaves and plunge the sprouts into boiling water for four to fi ve minutes. Cool in cold water, then spread the little vegetables onto a tray so they freeze individually. Once they’re fully frozen, store them in a plastic bag.
Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Garlic & Balsamic Vinegar
Serves: 2
10 Brussels sprouts
1 tbsp ghee
1 tsp salt
2 cloves garlic, chopped
50mL good balsamic vinegar
- Remove outer leaves of Brussels sprouts, cut in half and blanch them.
- Heat ghee in a sauté pan over medium heat and add garlic.
- Place sprouts flat side down and sauté until lightly brown, then turn and sauté the other side, about 4–5 mins each side.
- Transfer to serving dish, pour over balsamic, cover with a plate or lid and allow to infuse for 2–3 mins before serving
