Starting at Conondale in Queensland’s Sunshine Coast hinterland and meandering north to the Great Sandy Strait by Fraser Island, the Mary River is, for the most part, a quiet waterway. But don’t be fooled by her seemingly gentle nature; the Mary runs deep with a fighting spirit and steely determination that has seen her carve rocky banks, nurture a number of endangered species and defeat a mighty dam.
With its sleepy towns and glorious national parks, the upper-river region known as Mary Valley Country certainly doesn’t look like somewhere that would be steeped in controversy. But six years ago, the area was thrust in the spotlight and its residents were forced into battle when then Queensland Premier Peter Beattie announced his support for the building of a dam at Traveston Crossing, between Dagun and Amamoor.
To the people of Mary Valley Country, the announcement was likened to a “shock and awe” strategy; a bolt from the blue. The word from a dictatorship rather than a democratic government. Locals felt angry and betrayed. There had been no public consultation, no discussion at a local-government level and no public impact assessments. For many, the message was, “We’re building the dam. Deal with it.”
For the next three years, the Mary Valley became a household name, at least for those with more than a passing interest in environmental protection or politics. Almost overnight, the Save the Mary Co-ordination Group was formed. Tireless volunteers fought the good fight, using science and research against the enemy and producing countless documents and studies showing damming the Mary was simply not a good idea. Not only would farming families be forced off fertile land, there was the Queensland Lungfish, the Mary River Turtle and the Mary River Cod to consider — just some of the endangered species likely to be wiped out by the effects of the dam.
At the time, Queensland was in the grips of its longest and most devastating drought, and the battle of small country collective versus big government water strategy dredged up murky issues about water management and environmental responsibility. After all, which is more important? A barely heard-of species of cod or an expanding urban population with no water to wash their feet?
In addition to illuminating the plight of endangered species and the fragility of eco-systems like Fraser Island — one of Australia’s leading attractions and a potential victim should the dam go ahead — the battle brought us some unforgettable images of peaceful protest: hundreds of kayaks in the Flotilla of Hope, 1000 horses marching along Kandanga’s main street, and water engineer and campaigner Steve Posselt kayaking from Brisbane to Sydney to deliver 3000 letters of protest to then environment minister Peter Garrett.
In 2009, Midnight Oil’s former front man put a stop to the dam proposal on the grounds it would have “unacceptable impacts on matters of national environmental significance” and so — on the surface, at least — the battle was over; the Mary was saved.
Today, driving between the towns of Dagun, Amamoor and Kandanga, which would have been swamped by the dam, you still see the occasional yellow triangle nailed high to a tree by the Mary Valley Road. “Save the Mary”, “Don’t Murray the Mary”. And this one: “Thank You, Mary Valley Supporters”. An education centre at Kandanga Train Station remains, lest anyone forget that, although for now the dam is blocked and the drought is over, should the issue be raised again, government will have another fight on its hands.
In the meantime, the Mary Valley region is in recovery mode. More than three years of uncertainty while they waited for a final decision on the dam devastated the people of the towns that would have been affected. Many sold up cheap and moved away, now they can’t – or won’t – come back.
Today, the Mary Valley may be quiet, but that’s part of what makes it so special. And the community spirit that saw the people tear down the wall before it was even built has been channelled into other efforts, like building tourism. Positioned as it is, just 40 minutes from the popular Sunshine Coast, the Mary Valley has lots to offer travellers, especially nature enthusiasts, and locals are keen to shrug off the spectre of the dam and show that there’s a lot more to their region.
The Mary way
My first visit to Mary Valley Country was aboard one of its most enduring attractions, the Mary Valley Rattler, a squat locomotive built in 1950 at Maryborough. The steam train puffs twice weekly from Gympie to Imbil and our day-trip included cheese tasting and a hold-up by bushrangers. My six-week-old son slept obliviously in a sling for the entire journey while his father and grandfather took turns hanging their heads out the window with glee. Since then, we’ve returned to the Mary Valley region many times, to camp, to walk and to enjoy the peace and quiet and real country hospitality.
The six weeks from mid-September to the end of October are a particularly good time to visit as locals display their creative talents using the medium of scarecrows. One of Australia’s quirkier events, the Mary Valley Scarecrow Festival started as a bit of a laugh in Maleny and Conondale in 1995 and has since spread to the other townships all the way to Gympie. Expect to see politicians, sportsmen, scuba-divers and singers stuffed with straw. The scarecrows are judged and prizes are awarded every year.
Two other annual events that bring the masses to the Mary are the Gympie Music Muster, held in the normally peaceful Amamoor state forest in August, and the Kenilworth Cheese, Wine & Food Fest held around Easter time.
Kenilworth is a lovely old town with a small strip of shops and cafés plus a fabulous op shop that sells Nepalese clothing and crafts and supports orphanages in that country. Kenilworth is nowhere near as busy or built-up as Maleny, but some of that Sunshine Coast organic-living vibe has seeped in and you’ll find good coffee and wholesome meals here. And let’s not forget the cheese. Kenilworth Country Foods is located at the bottom of the hill with a huge selection of award-winning cheeses, yoghurts and other locally made products.
Fine foods aside, the Mary Valley’s greatest attraction is its diverse landscape, with dairy pastures, alluvial plains and eucalypt forests making for spectacular drives or walks. The Conondale National Park and Imbil and Amamoor state forests provide a range of short and long treks that take in riverine rainforest, hoop and bunya pine plantations and waterfalls, and there are other easily accessible paths on which to stretch your legs.
One of my favourites is the Fig Tree walk, a one-kilometre circuit just off the Kenilworth-Maleny Road. In addition to the majestic Moreton Bay fig trees with their fascinating root systems, the path is littered with leaves from the Giant Stinging Tree, forcing you to walk mindfully and slowly. It’s not unusual to have the path to yourself and you can hear the Mary River just beyond the foliage, quietly making her way through the rocky riverbed.
In addition to walking, local operators run horse-riding and bird-watching tours. Ride On Mary hires mountain bikes and operates platypus-spotting kayak adventures at twilight. Visit the tourist office at Kenilworth for more information.
There’s a great range of accommodation options in the Mary Valley area: you can camp in the forests, by Yabba Creek at Imbil or on a working deer farm at Boruma Deer Park. Pretty and pet-friendly Lagoon Pocket near Gympie is one of a growing number of upmarket B&Bs, but the pick of the bunch is Melawondi Spring Retreat. Tanya and Tony Fisher weren’t sure where in the world they wanted to open a B&B but when they found the land just outside of Imbil, they knew it was the perfect place to create a luxurious, secluded retreat. The sole cabin is surrounded by bush and the deck is the perfect place for quiet contemplation or yoga, or you can soak up the view from the enormous spa bath inside. Dozens of thoughtful touches make this one of the most delightful B&Bs I’ve ever encountered, from chocolates and cheese plates to the fresh-baked bread and freshly squeezed juice that appears in the possum-proof box outside when day breaks.
A unique community
Although it’s technically located in the Sunshine Coast region, one of the great Mary Valley experiences is a trip to Crystal Waters Eco-Village. Located near Conondale, at the headwaters of the Mary River, Crystal Waters is a 650-acre, privately owned village with a population of about 200 people. From humble beginnings as a commune in the late 1970s, the Crystal Waters Community became an official village in 1986 and has flourished ever since.
On the first Saturday of the month, Crystal Waters attracts visitors to its small, family-focused market. The market has a lovely vibe as village kids show new friends their playground and chase bubbles together. Second-hand clothing, handmade goods, arts, crafts and soaps are for sale, along with produce, cakes and other goodies. But the emphasis really seems to be on the social side of things; there’s live music, tea at Chai Mamas, plus wholesome vegetarian meals served up from the co-op kitchen.
The market takes place in the Village Square, an open, grassy plain with fields beyond. The co-op buildings and magnificent deck, used for entertainment and festivals, are found here, as is the rammed-earth bakery. This is where locally famous Les Breads come from — perfect rounds of sourdough crafted by the amiable Les Bartlett in a woodfired oven using traditional methods.
The eco-village welcomes visitors at all times and many come to take advantage of the varied skills of the Crystal Waters community. Tom Nealson is a wildlife expert with a passion for magpies who can take you on a bird-watching tour of the village. With no domestic animals allowed and three dams adding to the different habitats, Cystal Waters is a haven for hundreds of species.
Sidonie Bouchet, of Sole to Soul, is an incredibly gifted reflexologist, spiritual healer and colour therapist who knows more about me from my feet that I do after 33 years. My session with Sidonie reminds me to look after myself, ditch the caffeine and wear more yellow: valuable life lessons for anyone, I think. For those looking for more intensive healing, holistic coach Izabella Siodmak offers one-on-one retreats. Scott from Waterbreath Retreat provides an insight into the workings of a permaculture property and gives a tour of the village, including the bamboo plantations and natural “cathedral” where villagers celebrate marriages, births and deaths.
With so much to learn and absorb, you’ll want to stay overnight; camping, cabins and the bunkhouse are available at the Crystal Waters eco caravan park, and boutique accommodation is found at Waterbreath Retreat.
For community spirit, spectacular natural surroundings and countless unique experiences, try the Mary Valley region on for size. Whether you seek quiet and solitude or an adventure to remember, you’re bound to find something you love about the Mary.
Jo Hegerty is a freelance writer and editor based in sunny Redcliffe, Queensland. She blogs about eco living, mindful parenting and healthy eating atwww.downtoearthmother.com.
